There was a way of pleasure within the air at Copenhagen Style Week’s S/S 2025 version, introduced on by vivid sunny skies, dips within the sea, countless cardamom buns and a packed schedule of thrilling runway exhibits and displays to soak up.
The roster was fuller than standard this season, because of CPHFW’s new ‘One to Watch’ scheme, which has provided help and steering to 3 promising younger labels (Bonnetje, Sól Hansdóttir and Stem) who every hope to alter the face of Scandinavian trend of their distinctive method. The longstanding CPHFW NEWTALENT program additionally returned for S/S 2025, an initiative that gives financial help for 3 to 5 new designers per season. This yr, these designers had been Alectra Rothschild/Masculina, Berner Kühl, Rolf Ekroth, and Stamm, Frederik Taus (represented by ALPHA) and Sofia Ilmonen (represented by Style in Helsinki).
Along with CPHFW’s spectacular emphasis on sustainability – a longstanding hallmark of the occasion – loads of assets had been poured into supporting different rising abilities. This made for a much more various and provoking set of runway exhibits compared to among the different main trend weeks across the globe. From a brand new under-the-radar menswear label to covetable zero-waste knits, these are the 5 new manufacturers from Copenhagen Style Week S/S 2025 that you want to know. Skål!
Copenhagen Style Week S/S 2025: the rising designers to know
Bonnetje
(Picture credit score: Pictures by James Cochrane)
There was a number of buzz round Bonnetje, a younger label based by Anna Myntekær and Yoko Maja Hansen in 2021, in Copenhagen. Exhibiting as a part of ‘One to Watch’, the design duo placed on a presentation-slash-runway-show that embodied the vitality of dashing off to the airport. It explored ‘the fantastic thing about dressing’, by means of how we prepare in a rush, or whereas in transit. (We would toss on wrinkled garments, or unintentionally mismatch buttons on a jacket, maybe). Right here, Bonnetje upcycled outdated fits, costume shirts and tailor-made items into funnel neck blouses, a sheer shift costume with belted closure and even a robe of tied jacket sleeves, all counting on an thrilling sense of play, so usually missed in trend. A significant spotlight was the purses – pinstriped baguettes and delicate shoulder baggage reimagined from outdated Italian suiting – made in collaboration with Swedish luxurious model, VENCZEL.
bonnetje-works.com
Stem
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Stem)
In a captivating storefront in central Copenhagen, Sarah Brunnhuber introduced her third assortment – ‘Version 3’ – for her model Stem, which pushes the boundaries of handicraft and weaving, all whereas experimenting with method and type. Fashions in deliciously frayed tanks, stitched polos and rolled ruffled tie skirts rotated all through the area periodically to point out off Stem’s zero-waste knits and their trailing pure fibres. To create the gathering’s standout skirts in cream and pale Danish blue, Brunnhuber spent almost two years growing a signature ‘pulling’ method with assistant Mathilde Mortens in a mill in Bergamo, Italy. Clothes had been then additional animated by means of hours of pulling and knotting again in Brunnhuber’s Copenhagen studio. The ensuing items are usually not solely a window into the manufacturing course of – and a sustainable one at that – however covetable and wearable in their very own proper.
stem.web page
Nicklas Skovgaard
Nicklas Skovgaard S/S 2025
(Picture credit score: Pictures by James Cochrane)
Although not precisely a brand new addition to CPHFW – this season marks Nicklas Skovgaard’s third look on the official schedule – we’d be remiss to not point out his stellar S/S 2025 assortment, which explores the lifetime of his mom, Annie, through the time she was turning 30 (the identical age Svkogaard will flip this yr). The designer took over an artwork gallery, mounting lookbook photos and outdated images of his mother depicting how she’d costume within the Nineties for holidays, dinner events and even the aerobics courses she taught. A solid of fashions, together with efficiency artist and frequent collaborator, Britt Liberg, twirled by means of the area in numerous states of costume. Named ‘Assortment 09’, the designer tapped into Nineteen Eighties silhouettes as soon as extra, layering juxtaposed materials and experimenting with surprising cuts, all of the whereas drawing inspiration from Seventeenth-century trompe L’oeil work by Dutch painter Cornelius Norbertus Gijsbrechts. In spite of everything, there’s actually no higher technique to ’put on’ Nicklas Skovgaard’s signature drop waist clothes than by holding them as much as oneself and hanging a pose.
nicklasskovgaard.com
Berner Kühl
(Picture credit score: Pictures by James Cochrane)
There’s definitely no scarcity of Scandinavian menswear manufacturers placing forth aspirational minimalism within the type of on a regular basis, staple clothes, however Berner Kühl upped the ante with its second-ever runway present. The S/S 2025 outing comes at a time of main progress for the label – the opening of their idea retailer in Copenhagen, for one – and sees designer Frederik Berner Kühl specializing in fabrication and building. From light-weight, silky button-ups that glimmered within the brightly lit area, to cheeky, sheer knits and sharp jackets with coated cuffs and collars, the sweetness was within the particulars.
bernerkuhl.com
Jade Cropper
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Jade Cropper (by way of @jadecropper))
This season additionally marked the thrilling return of Swedish designer Jade Cropper to Copenhagen, bringing a much-needed edge to S/S 2025’s festivities. In a darkish warehouse with sand protecting the ground, Cropper’s hanging silhouettes had been entrance and centre. Exploring the ‘limitlessness’ of trend, every garment was designed to be versatile and fully transformable, whether or not that be a leather-based jacket that transformed right into a bag or a hook-and-eye jersey costume that, with a couple of modifications, turned a low-waisted skirt. In line with the present notes, the designer stored returning to the thought of snakes all through the design course of – seen actually in a bespoke purple printed hoodie and the feel of the recycled leather-based – however extra importantly, their symbolism, with snakes representing rebirth, feminine empowerment and the cyclical nature of renewal.
jadecropper.com
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