Vogue presently feels in a state of limbo. With a slew of inventive administrators taking over tenure within the coming months, menswear vogue week – which passed off in Florence, Milan and Paris this January – felt considerably subdued, with the distinct feeling that designers and homes have been taking inventory forward of some seismic modifications forward (the variety of debuts going down from now till September has reached the double digits, together with Matthieu Blazy at Chanel, Sarah Burton at Givenchy, and Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford). As of yesterday morning, the modifications saved coming: Kim Jones is ready to go away his place as inventive director of Dior Males after seven years on the inventive powerhouse. As for his alternative, rumours abound.
The modifications additionally meant a extra scant schedule than in current seasons: Gucci and Fendi have been off the Milan Vogue Week schedule (each will present co-ed in February), as was JW Anderson, who has proven within the metropolis because the summer time of 2022. In Paris, Loewe was notably absent, as was Dries Van Noten (the latter will present its first assortment by Julian Krausner subsequent month), whereas Givenchy additionally selected to attend till womenswear vogue month to unveil Burton’s imaginative and prescient for the home. There have been some additions, although: buzzy American designer Willy Chavarria swapped New York for Paris, and introduced some much-needed vitality, whereas Peter Copping debuted his males’s and womenswear collections for Lanvin on Paris Vogue Week Males’s last night.
With all that mentioned, there was nonetheless loads to unpack from the month-long schedule of exhibits, which largely continued to maneuver away from quiet, understated luxurious in the direction of a bolder, extra eclectic wardrobe – Prada, Giorgio Armani, Louis Vuitton, Sacai and Magliano all proposed the concept of particular person model over a prescribed uniform. There was additionally an intriguing re-examination of eveningwear, an affect of the outside, and a few extraordinary expressions of craft. In the meantime fake fur turned the shocking material du jour.
Right here, Wallpaper* vogue options editor Jack Moss unpacks the traits and takeaways from menswear month, which concluded in Paris this previous Sunday.
Males’s Vogue Month A/W 2025: the traits and takeaways
Designers continued to embrace the eclectic
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Prada)
After Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ paean to particular person model at their S/S 2025 womenswear present in September – full with 49 radically totally different seems to be – the pair continued to eschew thematics for a daring assemblage of components which Simons describe as akin to an ‘unconscious’ stream of thought. As such the gathering teetered between the romantic – floral motifs, washed-out plaids, shrunken knits adorned with metallic charms, boyish pyjamas – and one thing extra ‘primitive’ in fake fur hoods and tabards, cowboy boots, and fits comprised of patchworked items of leather-based. Mrs Prada mentioned it was about ‘intuition, ardour and romance…. which is so essential in the meanwhile; it’s the season of synthetic intelligence, and that is our transfer once more in the direction of humanity.’
It was a temper which infused a lot of the season, whereby designers largely rejected the quiet and understated within the pursuit of bolder expressions of private model. At Giorgio Armani, the 90-year-old designer introduced a set of ‘magnificence to dwell in’ which he mentioned was a rejection of a ‘pre-packaged components’ (as such, the gathering moved between usually fluid tailoring, iridescent skiwear, and a mess of enveloping textures and floor finishes). At Sacai, Chitose Abe drew inspiration from Maurice Sendak’s 1963 kids’s e book The place the Wild Issues Are, during which the protagonist travels to a magical realm of beasts and creatures; within the assortment, this meant a heady mash-up of fake fur, skiwear and the tuxedo, alongside playful collaborations with Carhartt and Ugg.
Opening Paris Vogue Week Males’s, Pharrell Williams drafted fellow designer Nigo to collaborate on a Louis Vuitton assortment impressed by their private archives – from CDs and toys to varsity jackets and sneakers – which have been displayed within the Louvre showspace. The gathering itself had a equally eclectic temper, an uninhibited trip by means of the pair’s shared obsessions, from playful Japanese motifs to souped-up riffs on workwear and uniforms. Like at Prada, it was an invite to experiment and play.
Night put on was re-examined
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Wooyoungmi)
‘I feel it’s time to deliver again the pleasure of carrying a go well with, not as a result of you need to, however for the enjoyable of it,’ mentioned Véronique Nichanian on the finish of her A/W 2025 present for Hermès, which culminated with louche, Seventies-inflected tailoring. Certainly, a need for gown up – and the persevering with renaissance of tailoring – ran by means of the season, with designers embracing (or certainly deconstructing) conventional formal put on. At Wooyoungmi, a riff on the tuxedo opened a present which noticed designer Madame Woo rework menswear archetypes (the fits have been sculpted on the waist, and got here adorned with 3D-appliqué flowers in tailoring wool), whereas at Sacai, the closing look noticed black blazers sliced away to disclose their lining, trimmed with fake fur, or reconstructed into flared, peplum silhouettes. In the meantime Kim Jones, in what can be his last assortment for Dior Males, regarded in the direction of the ‘graphic and angular’ tailoring of Christian Dior’s mid-century Ligne H assortment, introduced within the mid-Nineteen Fifties. It led to some extraordinary items: a crossover single-breasted tuxedo, nipped on the waist; a ballooning black kimono jacket, or a white blazer adorned with a single white bow alongside its again. They continued Jones’ assertion that clothes have to be treasured to warrant your consideration: ‘individuals need one thing that noone else has,’ he informed Wallpaper* in 2024.
Fake fur was all over the place
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Auralee)
Often, a pattern emerges in such a method that you just really feel satisfied that designers should have plotted up the concept collectively beforehand. This season, it was fake fur, which started in Milan with Dolce & Gabbana’s shaggy 2000s-inspired hooded jackets (the gathering was tilted ‘Paparazzi’, and the gathering was an ode to celeb road model) and continued in Prada’s S/S 2025 assortment, whereby Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons mentioned animalistic slices of fake fur represented an intuitive, primitive method of dressing (in any case, the need to swaddle oneself in fur and animal hides dates again to the neanderthals). In Paris, Auralee’s fake fur jacket – worn beneath an overcoat with a child blue collar poking out from beneath – supplied a extra quotidien tackle the pattern, whereas at Saint Laurent, which closed the month with a shock present, Anthony Vaccarrello confirmed a sequence of showstopping ‘fur’ coats which have been really constructed from 1000’s of feathers. In the same vein, shearling was additionally in abundance all through the season – Zegna, Hermès and Sacai all used the enveloping material of their collections – suggesting a collective need for defense towards the weather (whether or not opposed climate or one thing extra existential).
Designers have been prepared to move outside
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Kiko Kostadinov)
Utility and pragmatism have been a throughline of the season, with plenty of designers trying in the direction of outdoor-wear for inspiration (with the churn of world information persevering with throughout vogue month, it was unsurprising that designers sought refuge within the name of the wild). A rugged assortment from Japanese label Junya Watanabe MAN, that includes a sequence of burly, bearded fashions, set the tone with a collaboration with Filson, a historic American outdoorwear model which dates again to 1897. Citing a need for ‘one thing actual’, Watanabe’s signature workwear silhouettes have been introduced alongside plaid shirts, waxed jackets, patchworked denims and trucker hats (the sounds of bearded American people singer Avi Kaplan supplied the soundtrack). Each Giorgio Armani and Emporio Armani had complete sections of outdoor-wear (the previous in gleaming iridescent skiwear, the latter in piled-up fluoro climbing gear), whereas at Yohji Yamamoto and IM Males (an Issey Miyake offshoot), quilted materials have been used to enveloping impact. Most intriguing, although, was Kiko Kostadinov’s newest assortment, which he mentioned was impressed by the stark, remoted pure environments of Hungarian director Béla Tarr. In his signature queasy color mixtures, fashions trudged throughout a runway of fallen leaves, carrying riffs on fleece climbing jackets, army overcoats and swaddling ponchos, whereas a pair of tabi sneakers (the newest in a collaboration with Japanese sportswear model Asics) have been this season’s most covetable footwear.
Excessive-level craft remained key
(Picture credit score: Courtesy OWENSCORP)
Rick Owens titled his newest assortment ‘Concordia’, a reference to the commercial Italian city, near Venice, the place he produces his collections. In its austerity, he referred to as it a type of inventive monastery, an area for him and his groups to work on concepts in whole isolation (‘this cloistered life appears to be what it takes to have the ability to concentrate on reaching for one thing bizarre,’ he mentioned). As such, his A/W 2025 assortment was a powerful demonstration of craft, from the ‘megacrust’ denims (comprised of bronze foil and wax painstakingly utilized onto denim), to the sweeping tops comprised of millefeuille layers of hand-cut rubber, or the unimaginable boots adorned with scale-like layers of laser-cut leather-based (a collaboration with Victor Clavelly). Make no mistake, regardless of their purposeful look of rawness and dishevelment – a Rick Owens signature – this craft was couture stage.
Certainly, a concentrate on high-level craft ran all through the season, not least at Dior, whereby his newest couture line for males (interspersed with the ready-to-wear assortment) melded spectacular development with breathtaking beadwork and embellishment, like a twinkling of crystals throughout the shoulder of a blazer that gave the looks of getting been caught within the rain. At Louis Vuitton, there have been mink intarsia hoodies replicating the home’s checkerboard motif, whereas at Saint Laurent, the aforementioned ‘fur’ coats have been constructed from delicate fronds of feathers painstakingly hand-applied. In the meantime at Giorgio Armani, which is able to have fun 50 years in enterprise this 12 months, the present ended with a black velvet blazer adorned with smatterings of sparkle, evoking an evening sky dotted with stars.
Supply: Wallpaper
