In her 2023 essay ‘El tiempo de la promesa’ (‘The Time of the Promise’), Catalan thinker Marina Garcés considers how modern society has change into largely frightened of the dedication concerned in promise-making. ‘Guarantees,’ as movie programmers Beatriz Navas Valdés and Natalia Marín Sancho word, ‘understood as gestures that permit us to reclaim each the current and the long run.’ The work, coupled with the query of what primarily defines being an grownup, has subsequently knowledgeable their new exhibit at MoMu in Antwerp: a three-channel audiovisual set up that catalogues a collection of transformative moments in Spanish cinema, highlighting the position of costume and styling in reflecting pivotal scenes in girls’s on display screen lives.
Nonetheless from Elisa, vida mía, 1977, directed by Carlos Sauro, © Carlos Sauro
(Picture credit score: Nonetheless from Elisa, vida mía, 1977, directed by Carlos Sauro, © Carlos Sauro)
Titled ‘Resolución’, a female phrase in Spanish which means ‘one thing that’s determined’ (a decision), the piece was commissioned along side EUROPALIA ESPAÑA and options 108 actresses in whole, in clips pulled from some 98 movies made by 65 administrators over 9 many years; the teenage Penélope Cruz, in her pink mini gown and espadrilles, from 1992’s Jamón, Jamón seems, likewise the protagonist of Cecilia Bartolome’s 1978 divorce-road journey function, Vámonos, Bárbara. ‘‘Resolución’ explores a defining expertise of maturity: the second of creating choices and taking cost for them, delving into the historical past of Spanish cinema in quest of this emotional environment throughout the many years, to hint how filmmakers and costume designers selected to decorate girls at these key crossroads,’ define the curators.
Nonetheless from Jamón, Jamón, 1992, directed by Bigas Luna, © Bigas Luna
(Picture credit score: Nonetheless from Jamón, Jamón, 1992, directed by Bigas Luna, © Bigas Luna)
‘Who may overlook Carmen Maura burning a mattress to interrupt with all the things and depart behind that poisonous relationship? In the event you’re Spanish, these pictures stay in your DNA,’ they proceed, recalling a picture from Pedro Almodóvar’s 1988 breakthrough image, Girls on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown. Within the scene Maura’s Pepa, just lately deserted by her lover, wears only a vibrant pink and white floral shirt, later swapped out for a go well with jacket in the identical shade. ‘Purple evokes ardour, vengeance, and blood. Cinematically talking, nobody has portrayed ardour, jealousy, and vengeance like Almodóvar has, and he’s finished so with a lightness and humour that’s uniquely his,’ provide Navas Valdés and Marín Sancho, addressing the central position color performs on display screen.
‘Blue, particularly denim, turns into a logo of freedom in movies by feminine administrators from the Nineteen Seventies. Purple, traditionally linked to feminism, can also be the long-lasting color of Spain’s “fantaterror” style, stuffed with ghosts, witches, and demonic girls who defy norms and channel untamed energy. Purple is omnipresent in his [Almodóvar’s] melodramas, however different iconic filmmakers additionally use it powerfully, like Vicente Aranda or Bigas Luna, particularly within the unmistakable palette of Jamón, Jamón. And a brand new technology continues that legacy – Andrea Jaurrieta as an illustration, in her 2024 revenge story Nina.’
Whereas the performances of actresses like Cruz, Maura, Victoria Abril, Sara Montiel and Aurora Bautista are the nucleus of the exhibit – highlighting how motion pictures have mirrored the altering actuality for girls in Spain over the previous century – Navas Valdés and Marín Sancho observe that cinema moreover, ‘captures how style “behaves” over time, the way it’s worn, the way it strikes on the physique, and the way it interacts with narrative.’ Because the Spanish costume designer Sonia Grande – a collaborator of Almodóvar’s for greater than 20 years – instructed GQ in 2021, ‘Style [on screen] has to shock and fall in love and inform issues.’
Nonetheless from Carmen y Lola, 2018, directed by Arantxa Echevarría, ©Arantxa Echevarría
(Picture credit score: Nonetheless from Carmen y Lola, 2018, directed byArantxa Echevarría, ©Arantxa Echevarría)
Reflecting on the importance of costume as a storytelling machine for filmmakers in Spain, particularly, the pair level to the nation’s political panorama, and the business modifications that arrived after the autumn of Francisco Franco’s authoritarian premiership. ‘Spain embraced modernity by cinema. It grew to become an area the place the nation’s wealthy folklore, which the nationalist authorities sought to vindicate, co-existed with representations of latest style and fashionable aspirations,’ they inform Wallpaper*. ‘Spain’s position as a world centre for interval movie manufacturing for the reason that Nineteen Fifties, together with its early use of color applied sciences in fashionable cinema, fostered a extremely subtle costume design business. Combining a protracted custom of seamstresses with the rising professionalisation of costume design, wardrobe grew to become a visible and metaphorical language of Spanish cinema – a approach to specific hidden needs and pains; to examine the desires of a society eager for a extra open, inventive future.’
‘By means of costume, hair, and make-up, we are able to see how style turns into a visible code, particularly in occasions of censorship or social stress,’ they proceed. ‘Throughout the Franco regime (for instance), girls dressed to make a great impression, or stay invisible. Later, we witness their gradual liberation sporting denims, as the will for change and the rise of feminism gained momentum. ‘Resolución’ captures each a psychological shift and its materials expression within the physique and magnificence of ladies on display screen.’
‘Resolución’ is at MoMu in Antwerp till 23 November 2025.
Supply: Wallpaper