It’s 1925, and Paris is within the midst of an artwork deco love affair. The Worldwide Exhibition of Trendy Ornamental and Industrial Arts, uniting 15,000 exhibitors from greater than 20 nations, is in full swing on the banks of the Seine. The avant-garde showcase of jewelry, artwork and design is the head of artwork deco, championing a motion closely impressed by African artwork and outlined by a stylised geometry. For French jewelry home Van Cleef & Arpels, which scooped a Grand Prize for progressive jewelry design, it was a recognition of its mastering of the ornamental arts.
Marking the occasion’s one centesimal anniversary, the maison is revisiting this watershed second with an exhibition held on the former residence of Prince Asaka, now the Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Artwork Museum. The epitome of artwork deco type, the palace was inbuilt 1933 in Tokyo’s Shirokanedai district for Prince and Princess Asaka, who had not too long ago returned from three years in Paris. That they had visited the 1925 artwork deco exhibition; impressed by what they noticed, they requested Henri Rapin, who had overseen the inside design of the occasion’s pavilions, to deliver his attribute type again to their most important residence. Among the many artists he employed to deliver his imaginative and prescient to life was glassmaker René Lalique,whose lovely mild fittings can nonetheless be admired within the constructing right this moment. After the conflict, the palace turned the official residence for Japan’s prime minister and international minister, earlier than turning into an artwork museum in 1983.
Van Cleef & Arpels’ earliest artwork deco designs are on show within the museum’s Nice Eating Corridor, that includes a botanical wall aid by Léon Alexandre Blanchot
(Picture credit score: Den Niwa)
A chic marriage of French artwork deco and minimalist Japanese design, the area was named after the luxurious gardens that encompass it. Faithfully maintained, in 2014 the museum gained a brand new annexe, designed by architect and photographer Hiroshi Sugimoto, which encompasses trendy exhibition areas, in addition to a café and store.
Van Cleef & Arpels’ ‘Entwined Flowers, Crimson and White Roses’ bracelet, which received a Grand Prize on the 1925 Worldwide Exhibition in Paris, is illuminated by a René Lalique fruit-motif pendant within the Nice Eating Corridor
(Picture credit score: Den Niwa)
The present exhibition, ‘Timeless Artwork Deco with Van Cleef & Arpels Excessive Jewellery’, unites 250 items of historic jewelry, watches and treasured objects, together with the Grand Prize-winning ‘Entwined Flowers, Crimson and White Roses’ bracelet. Lots of the items on show, some for the primary time, had been crafted between 1910-1930, uniting distinctive design particulars, similar to sharp geometrical strains, intricate openwork, sculpted gold and luscious enamel. The emergence of an aesthetic could be traced all through the shows, from the stylised floral motifs paying homage to Asian influences, via to the graphic diamond three-dimensional varieties, designed to snake their approach fluidly across the wearer. In different items, performance guidelines, similar to in a modern minaudière self-importance case created in 1933, or within the ‘Zip’ necklace, an progressive design, patented in 1938, that celebrated the normally hidden internal workings.
Within the museum’s Hiroshi Sugimoto-designed annexe, the exhibition’s Backyard of Savoir-Faire part showcases Van Cleef & Arpels’ mastery of methods similar to enamelling in floral-and animal-inspired motifs
(Picture credit score: Den Niwa)
The design of the exhibition itself can also be essential to a narrative that marries type and performance. It was one thing that preoccupied architect Tezzo Nishizawa, founding father of his eponymous Tokyo-based observe, who oversaw the scenography. ‘Think about the dimensions between the structure of the museum and the small jewelry items,’ he says, on the challenges of making an immersive and pleasurable atmosphere. ‘We now have to get rid of this hole naturally, so we had been serious about how we will harmonise the 2. There was a want to have the exhibition instances impartial, however that normally turns into white or black. Right here, there are such a lot of vibrant and ornamental items, monotone would distract from the great thing about the jewelry. It turned an excellent alternative for me to consider the brand new definition of neutrality, and it resulted in the principle theme of this scenography and of the exhibition itself.’
Nishizawa attracts parallels between the worlds of jewelry and structure, creating varieties and shapes that emphasise each however with out distracting from the expertise. ‘The crew at Van Cleef & Arpels all observe the identical philosophy and have the identical mission. Working with them has enormously impressed my very own work. I’ve found that artwork deco could be very accessible to everybody, even right this moment, and it’s versatile sufficient to simply accept completely different views and completely different definitions of magnificence.’
‘Timeless Artwork Deco with Van Cleef & Arpels Excessive Jewellery’ is on present till 18 January on the Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Artwork Museum, teien-art-museum.ne.jp, vancleefarpels.com
This text seems within the December 2025 Entertaining Situation of Wallpaper* , obtainable in print on newsstands, on the Wallpaper* app on Apple iOS, and to subscribers of Apple Information + from 6 November. Subscribe to Wallpaper* right this moment
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