Have a look again at Wallpaper’s high 10 magnificence and grooming options of 2023, as chosen by magnificence & grooming editor Hannah Tindle – from interviews with Hermès nostril Christine Nagel and Björk’s nail artist Sojin Oh, to insider appears into Santa Maria Novella and Prada’s make-up debut.
Prime 10 magnificence and grooming options of 2023
01. Prada introduces ‘ugly stunning’ debut magnificence line
(Picture credit score: Prada)
Scottish make-up artist Lynsey Alexander is likely one of the style trade’s most esteemed inventive skills. She had beforehand collaborated with Prada’s co-creative director Raf Simons, and was a pure appointment as international inventive make-up accomplice to supervise the launch of the model’s debut magnificence and skincare providing in 2023.
Wallpaper* took one of many first insider appears on the assortment, talking with Alexander in regards to the inspiration behind it, the merchandise supplied, and the distinctive sensible know-how used to develop them. ‘There’s a juxtaposition of ugly and delightful, coming collectively to create one thing fairly extraordinary,’ Alexander defined. A becoming message for Prada, in fact.
READ MORE
02. Santa Maria Novella: a medieval model enters the fashionable age
(Picture credit score: Santa Maria Novella)
Florentine magnificence model Santa Maria Novella was based by Dominican friars in 1221, producing medicinal concoctions with herbs and crops cultivated of their gardens, making it the oldest magnificence home on the earth. With the rent of CEO Gian Luca Perris in 2020, it ushered in a contemporary period, launching 4 eau de parfums: L’Iris, Bizzarria, Gelsomino, and Magnolia.
Three years after his appointment, Wallpaper’s Mary Cleary travelled out to Italy to talk with him about his future imaginative and prescient. ‘It is very important create improvements, whereas nonetheless protecting in thoughts the roots that allowed this firm to final till now,’ he mentioned. ‘The monks had been nice innovators – they had been researching new substances, making new formulation, working with the Medici household to spend money on chemistry and in prescription drugs; so we have to preserve that in thoughts, however we additionally want to return on occasion and reboot issues from the archive.’ We look ahead to seeing how this promise holds up in 2024.
READ MORE
03. Björk’s nail artist Sojin Oh on creating among the most surreal talons within the enterprise
(Picture credit score: Sojin Oh)
‘I believe we share a fearlessness towards being expressive and emotional ladies artists. I actually respect how susceptible she is in her music, as a result of it captures the facility that emotionality and feeling have relative to logic,’ nail artist Sojin Oh advised Wallpaper* in February 2023. She was, in fact, referring to her work with Björk, and the surreally sculptural talons she creates for the musician.
In combining discovered supplies equivalent to enamel, fish bones, child shark enamel, caracol shell, oyster shell, and sea glass with builder gel, she crafts nails that sit between the attractive and the grotesque, recalling natural varieties held in terrariums. With latest red-carpet collaborations with actor Hari Nef, and journal editorials with Grimes, her profession retains on rising.
READ MORE
04. Hermès fragrance Un Jardin à Cythère is a cinematic exploration of a Greek backyard
Perfumer Christine Nagel
(Picture credit score: Denis Boulze)
Hermès launched a brand new perfume in October 2023. To mark the event, Wallpaper’s Mary Cleary spoke with the maison’s nostril Christine Nagel in regards to the fragrance, known as Terre d’Hermès Eau Givrée, which is impressed by a Greek backyard, containing notes of juniper, cedrat (a citrus fruit harking back to lemon and bergamot) and Timur pepper.
Nagel additionally revealed how she began her profession within the perfume trade after coming from an atypical background as a chemist, and the obstacles she overcame. (Perfumery is a usually male-dominated discipline, with generations of data handed down by households). ‘The primary motive [that barriers were there],’ Nagel explains, ‘is as a result of I’m a girl and perfumery is historically a masculine job. On high of that, I’m not from the south of France, I’m not the daughter of a perfumer and, coming from chemistry, I don’t have the everyday background.’ Nagel proves that innate expertise and a willingness to be taught is a potent mixture.
READ MORE
05. Japanese hair artwork: Yumeko Yume’s retro Osaka salon
(Picture credit score: Prissilya Junewin)
Wallpaper* ran a collection on the custom and innovation behind Japanese hair artwork, together with an examination of geiko wig-making, and a glance inside hairstylist Yumeko Yume’s area of interest salon, known as Yumeya, in Shinsaibashi. Specialising in hairstyles that reference the Sixties and Nineteen Seventies, and with interiors designed to match, the salon was captured in all its retro glory by photographer Prissilya Junewin.
‘I used to be within the music and manga of the [1960s and 1970s], however most of all, I liked the style scene,’ Yume advised author Makoto Kikuchi. ‘I didn’t have some huge cash rising up, so I used to purchase every kind of retro-looking second-hand garments, like patterned shirts and bell-bottoms.’ If you end up in Kyoto over the upcoming yr, head to the salon and expertise Yumeya for your self.
READ MORE
06. How Tom Ford modified the sweetness trade
(Picture credit score: Tom Ford)
In July 2023, Tom Ford introduced that he can be stepping down from the helm of his namesake model, and that Peter Hawkins, a long-time pal of the label, would take over. This adopted the sale of the enterprise in 2022 (which included style, eyewear and sweetness) to Estée Lauder for an informal $2.8 billion.
To mark Ford’s departure, Mary Cleary mirrored on his impression on the sweetness trade, within the August 2023 concern of Wallpaper*. ‘Eroticism has all the time been inherent to Tom Ford Magnificence, as has a playfulness round notions of femininity and masculinity, whether or not it’s in a variety of primarily unisex fragrances (a pattern Ford could possibly be credited with beginning) or a variety of lipsticks named after the lads in his life,’ she wrote. ‘Ford has all the time had a preternatural skill to present individuals what they need even earlier than they knew they wished it, and it’s this that makes him a real pioneer of Twenty first-century luxurious in magnificence and past.’
READ MORE
07. Kelly Lee Owens and Haeckels recreate the sensation of music by a perfume
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Haeckles)
Margate-based model Haeckels and Welsh digital musician Kelly Lee Owens explored the phenomenon of synesthesia in a brand new collaborative perfume known as Scent 08. ‘Owens has crafted a perfume as atmospheric as her music, particularly designed to set off, by scent, the identical immersive and transportive expertise of the perfect digital compositions,’ wrote Mary Cleary, in a chunk the place she interviewed the artist about how the scent was made.
Owens translated eight distinct recollections into the fragrance, together with the odor of contemporary rain on tarmac (which Haeckels has beforehand explored within the perfume Pluviophile), and the recreation of Cafe Poggi 1919 in Venice. ‘This perfume is one thing near my coronary heart,’ Owens advised Cleary. ‘What initially began out as making a scent to accompany an album has gone manner past that. The perfume I created has eight notes that mix to uplift, energise, after which finally floor the wearer. That is remedy in a bottle.’
READ MORE
08. At-home workouts from ‘punk ballerina’ Karole Armitage
(Picture credit score: Illustration by Lucie Birant)
Marking Worldwide Yoga Day 2023, we revisited a characteristic in collaboration with American choreographer Karole Armitage, who was described as a ‘punk ballerina’ after she shook up the downtown New York scene within the Nineteen Eighties, combining classical dance with vogueing, and switching up ballet sneakers for towering excessive heels. (She has additionally collaborated with the likes of Jeff Koons, Jean-Paul Gaultier, and Marc Jacobs.)
For Wallpaper*, Armitage created a easy information to stretching your physique within the consolation of your individual dwelling, which was illustrated by Paris-based artist Lucie Birant. With suggestions and methods for working the physique from head to toe, this instruction guide is one to maintain in your arsenal for that ‘new yr, new you’ regime.
READ MORE
09. Meet Nan Goldin and Bella Hadid’s go-to hairstylist, Evanie Frausto
(Picture credit score: Evanie Fausto)
‘I’m going into each undertaking with an open thoughts,’ Evanie Frausto advised Wallpaper* in April 2023. ‘I attempt to discover magnificence in every part, which leaves me open to so many concepts about what is gorgeous.’ The New York-based hairstylist is liable for taking care Nan Goldin and Bella Hadid’s locks, alongside working with manufacturers equivalent to Fendi and Heaven by Marc Jacobs. His type nods to grunge and turn-of-the-millennium tendencies: assume hair dye in each shade possible, and loads of embellishment.
Frausto shared tales from his days helping Jimmy Paul and Cesar Ramirez, and mentioned the time when he lived in a home of drag queens, considered one of whom gave him his first-ever expertise doing hair on a photoshoot. ‘I used to be taken in by a home of drag queens in Williamsburg,’ he mentioned, ‘considered one of whom was a make-up artist and I wasn’t a make-up artist, however I begged him to take me on set.’ And the remaining is historical past, with Frausto now lauded as one of many style trade’s most promising skills.
READ MORE
10. Byredo vacation assortment nods to Wim Wenders and Georgia O’Keefe
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Byredo)
To finish this checklist on a festive word, it’s price mentioning the latest Wallpaper* characteristic on Byredo’s new vacation assortment. Known as Self Phantasm, and dreamt up by the model’s inventive picture director Lucia Pica, the vary of 4 merchandise attracts surprising references from Wim Wenders, Georgia O’Keefe, and extra, with tones of gunmetal gray, washed denim blue, pearlescent silver, deep mustard and chestnut brown, and terracotta purple.
‘Byredo is a luxurious model but it surely additionally has a cool, fashionable facet to it, a vibrating vitality,’ says Pica within the article. ‘So there must be that one thing slightly off or perhaps slightly surprising, however on the identical time there’s such a sophistication to the model that that attention-grabbing facet appears elevated.’ Which is precisely why we proceed to be obsessive about every part that Byredo does.
READ MORE
Supply: Wallpaper
