5 watch tendencies to look out for in 2026

The watch trade has used a yr of financial uncertainty and shifting US tariffs as a catalyst relatively than a constraint, as manufacturers leaned into creativity. We now have seen core designs reimagined, as huge manufacturers and indies explored new supplies with renewed objective. As a substitute of enjoying it secure, Swiss manufacturers embraced the craftsmanship collectors recognize and paved the best way for modernity relatively than wanting within the rear-view mirror. By creating considerate tendencies that really feel much less hyped than forward-looking, we have now seen a wave of slimmer silhouettes, refined engineering and expressive dials that steadiness modernity with longevity. Listed below are 5 inventive tendencies that form a brand new, intentional period of watchmaking, robust sufficient to set the requirements for a resurgent 2026

Stone dials

We received the primary style of resurgent stone dial artwork in 2024, and this yr has seen the development go from hyped small runs to a steadily rising development. Manufacturers like Rolex shocked us at Watches & Wonders, whereas revived Gerald Genta have not too long ago launched a meteorite model of their sea-urchin-shaped Oursine, with a meteorite dial. And the independents, like Dennison, are all turning up their inventive quantity. Designed by Emmanuel Gueit of AP’s Royal Oak Offshore fame, this revived model has embraced the mixture of slim, formed circumstances and stone dials with fervour. With shapes paying homage to What Gueit’s father created for Piaget within the sixties, the model has reinvented itself all year long, proving that stone dials is greater than a fad, and debuting gem set circumstances to dial up the glitz issue. The ALD Malachie Diamond model captures the essence of the development, with a wild stone sample that makes every dial distinctive, framed by a baguette-set bezel and matched to an identical inexperienced strap.

Avant garde modernity

With the subversive aptitude of MB&F setting the stage, on the impartial aspect of watchmaking younger manufacturers are embracing wild new designs, and it’s excellent news. Whereas many manufacturers nonetheless appear to be caught on rewind, providing ever-tweaked variations of sixties wristwear, collectors are waking as much as future-gazing manufacturers like Vanguart. Their Orb is a modern, architectural flying-tourbillon watch whose openworked motion is enclosed in a 41 mm case simply 10.5 mm thick, and was final seen on the wrist of massive time collector Michael Jordan. Hand-finished surfaces intensify a sculptural symmetry of the curved case, whereas inside, a skeletonised calibre reveals a flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock, a nod to centuries of Swiss watchmaking. The barrel may be seen at 12, and a diamond-set rotor is flipped to the entrance the place it swings orbits in automated mode, with an ingenious locking perform conserving the Orb in Guide mode. With a 60-hour energy reserve, a titanium (or rose-gold) case, and an built-in strap, it’s as a lot a mechanical sculpture as a timepiece.

3D printing past the prototypes

3D-printing by no means actually took off as a producing device after its late 2000s hype, however main watch manufacturers have been utilizing it for prototyping for years. It’s lastly getting into the stage (and wrists) with manufacturers just like the small Dutch model Holthinrichs and British-based Apiar main the tech entrance, proving as soon as once more that it takes small manufacturers to embrace the dangers and be the primary to reap the rewards. The Apiar 3D-printed Gen1.0 evokes a radical new course for wristwatches: metallic additive manufacturing and generative design. Its Grade-23 titanium case is remarkably light-weight (≈ 38 g) and composed of three 3D-printed items, enabling varieties unattainable in conventional watchmaking. The online-like, skeletonised dial construction and open, aerospace-inspired geometry give the watch a strikingly trendy, technical look. Paired with a motion from La Joux-Perret, this watch is an announcement of sustainable innovation and engineering ambition relatively than custom.

Built-in bracelets, however with a contemporary twist

Manufacturers are beginning to see past the rose-tinted retro view that has created 100 homages, seeing the built-in bracelet design as a springboard for modernity. We now have seen it this yr from Christopher Ward, the profitable British model, whereas the Swiss model Louis Erard’s 2340 is a superb instance of reimagining the refined sport-chic integrated-bracelet. With a definite, angular case that marries light-weight titanium craftsmanship with simplicity, it gives one thing new. The 40 mm-by-8.95 mm case blends brushed titanium with studied polished accents and flows seamlessly right into a 92-component five-link bracelet. Inside ticks the Sellita SW300-1 automated motion, providing an influence reserve of about 56 hours. Dial decisions embody mint-green, slate-blue or deep-blue textures, all with diamond-cut markers and lumed fingers. It’s a development we wish extra of, and one which, when finished proper, blends minimalist sophistication with robust presence.

Favourites reimagined

Whereas Louis Erard and others search to reinvent the modern consolation of built-in bracelets, different manufacturers follow their confirmed designs. However we have now seen a rising development of embracing profitable shapes with new, future-proof supplies, with Cartier’s Santos XL now obtainable in a light-weight titanium model. Tissot has been using the retro-wave for just a few years now with the brand-boosting PRX, however has reset the hype-meter with carbon fibre. The brand new carbon-fibre model of the PRX delivers a stealthy, up to date assertion whereas preserving the hallmark integrated-bracelet traces of the unique’s 40.5 mm case. However now we have now it on a textured rubber strap, redone with a solid carbon case and matching carbon dial, every bit being distinctive because of the fabric’s pure marbling. The automated Powermatic 80 motion nonetheless impresses with its 80-hour energy reserve, whereas matte surfaces, a sapphire crystal, and a rubber strap full the stealthy, reinvented look: light-weight, rugged, and very best for on a regular basis put on.