Abra’s A/W 2025 magnificence look embraced the Eighties with furry wigs and ‘greige’ lipstick

Founding father of Abra Abraham Ortuño Perez grew up in Alicante, Spain, surrounded by girls. ‘My mother, my sister, my aunt… Our dwelling was full of magnificence merchandise,’ he tells Wallpaper*. ‘They had been among the most placing and memorable components of my childhood.’

Yesterday (5 March 2025) Ortuño Perez drew upon these reminiscences for Abra’s A/W 2025 assortment, titled Vogue Boutique. (This marked the model’s third runway presentation and the second to be included on the official Paris Vogue Week schedule for ready-to-wear).

Abra A/W 2025 magnificence: furry wigs, greige lipstick and New Romantic glamour

Ortuño Perez – who moved from Spain to Paris to check at Institut Français de la Mode – realised Abra in 2020, while freelancing at Jacquemus, Coperni, Rabanne, JW Anderson and Loewe on sneakers and equipment. (Ortuño Perez is behind the S/S 2022 sandals at Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe, the place heels took the type of realistic-looking cracked eggs, strong cleaning soap bars and bottles of nail polish, to call however a couple of of his viral designs).

In Abra’s debut runway present for A/W 2024, make-up met clothes as soon as extra within the type of surrealist jewelry and luggage: eyeshadow palette clutch luggage and earrings; lipstick-shaped brooches; necklaces that curved across the décolletage, sculpted to appear like bent make-up brushes; and prints on attire, nodding to the branding and advertising imagery of provincial magnificence salons.

‘My mother had a novel strategy to make-up,’ Ortuño Perez continues, talking on the themes of the A/W 2025 assortment, which constructed upon these of A/W 2024. ‘She would use a single pink lipstick for every part, from her lips to her cheeks. She additionally carried a compact eyeshadow palette full of shiny, vibrant shades, effortlessly creating her signature look.’

This season’s presentation acquired its identify because of the native trend boutiques the designer would go to together with his mom in the course of the Eighties and Nineties, the place a commercialised ‘fantasy’ of Parisian trend, by the likes of Thierry Mugler, can be offered. ‘This was an period the place high-fashion drama was effortlessly combined with the on a regular basis lady’s wardrobe,’ says Ortuño Perez.

The designer labored with French hair stylist Charlie Le Mindu and make-up artist Cécile Paravina to understand the Abra A/W 2025 runway magnificence, which fused his mom’s easy fashion with the glamorous aesthetics of Eighties pop and subculture. ‘The New Romantics revolutionised magnificence and trend,’ he says.

‘I additionally vividly keep in mind a scene from Flashdance the place she dances in a room full of flashing lights, sporting the signature make-up [of that time]. As a child, I used to be satisfied this was the way forward for magnificence.’

To realize this, Le Mindu styled among the fashions’ hair in a sometimes ‘bourgeoise’ trend; both unfastened and pure, cropped brief or slicked again into buns which had been then tied with scarves. Right here, make-up was stored smooth, tonal and ‘griege’. ‘The aim was to have a cohesive shade story with the Eighties, brownish materials of the gathering,’ Paravina explains.

‘Earlier than the present, we ready variations of beige and browns shades by mixing a number of cool-toned lipsticks to create a sort of gradient and match every mannequin with one thing that may work on their complexion. We then went for a smooth matte base, utilizing minimal basis and concealer and translucent powder,’ she continues.

In seven out of the 28 seems to be, nevertheless, Le Mindu and Paravina offered shaggy black wigs and white face paint, à la Siouxie Sioux. ‘I had my staff begin with eyes first to keep away from eyeshadow fall out,’ Paravina says, noting that she used a black waterproof pencil to construct a construction across the eye earlier than making use of matte eyeshadow in deep black and a medium purple-hued gray, ending the look with a contact of pale lavender. ‘Layering matte shadow helps with making a subtle look paying homage to Pater Sato’s airbrushed illustrations,’ she provides.

‘The Abra A/W 2025 magnificence look has a mixture of punk and goth, however with a futuristic power,’ Le Mindu tells Wallpaper*. ‘The hair is nearly like a hybrid of a Russian ushanka and a Eighties glam rock mullet. It blends components of uncooked, untamed textures with sharp, structured layering.’ A mixture of pure hair and goat fur offered exaggerated quantity, with lengths given a smooth polish. ‘There was some critical teasing and razor reducing to get that jagged end, alongside matte texturizing merchandise by Savage Panache and powders by L’Oreal Skilled.’