Conner Ives is a part of ‘The New Style Vanguard’ – 4 worldwide trend labels and designers presenting a brand new solution to gown, as featured in Wallpaper’s January 2023 ‘The Future Concern’, the place we meet the rising stars shaking up the artistic industries.
‘I attempt to see all limitations within the processes as a chance,’ says US-born designer Conner Ives from his studio house in Tottenham, north London. He’s speaking about his efforts not solely to upend the dogmatic schedule of trend exhibits however carve his personal manufacturing processes with wasteless upcycling.
However framing Ives as a ‘sustainable designer’ is to maybe short-change his means to create one-of-a-kind, putting couture clothes and outfits which were stealing headlines since his first yr at London’s Central Saint Martins (when he was simply 20, mannequin Adwoa Aboah wore considered one of his first-year scholar creations to the Met Gala). A playful, 2000s-tinged method – his clothes are sometimes reduce on the bias – options riffs on American design in a vivid amalgam of prints and hues.
Conner Ives on sustainability, individualism and a legacy of American design
Ives grew up in Bedford, exterior of New York, the place Ralph Lauren as soon as had a home (an essential affect for the younger designer, who’s exploring the importance of American archetypes – ‘it was occurring in my yard’). Though his was a typical small-town childhood – ‘you do not wish to stick out like a sore thumb, I wasn’t searching for bother’ – finally he desired one thing extra. ‘The oneness that comes from going to American public highschool… you gown the identical to outlive. I received to a degree the place I used to be so hungry for some individualism.’
Graduating in 2020 after an unprecedented upward trajectory, he introduced his first official assortment in February 2021 as a lookbook (the pandemic halted plans for a present). American designers Donna Karan, Todd Oldham and Invoice Blass offered specific inspiration, persevering with into a set proven in February 2022 which explored the tropes of American trend. ‘One of many pillars of American life-style design is [creating] actually well-designed merchandise,’ he says; as personal his model evolves, he’s specializing in constructing a complete assortment of wearable items alongside the extra dramatic purple carpet kinds.
Materials are sourced primarily from inside the UK, typically shopping for hundreds of T-shirts at a time from classic wholesalers within the Midlands, whereas classic silk scarves are sourced in Italy. Availability of uncooked materiality within the provide chain informs the design course of too (for instance, pristine plain white T-shirts are exhausting to come back by within the classic round market, so you will not see him working with lots of these). ‘I actually admire the identification that classic clothes has,’ he says.
‘I do not need this to simply be a flash within the pan,’ he provides of his thus far brief profession. ‘We try to alter a lot. I attempted to blow aside our thought of what sustainability is as a result of there isn’t a textbook definition. Each facet of what I do, and each facet of my job, is ultimately confronting the query.’
Fashions: Phyllis at Milk Administration. Casting: Feranmi Eso. Hair: Kim Rance at LGA Administration utilizing Genuine Magnificence Idea. Make-up: Marina Belfon-Rose utilizing RMS Magnificence. Images assistants: James Robertson, Sam Callahan. Style assistant: Yun Zhang. Hair assistant: Anastasiia Gryniuka.
A model of this story appeared within the January 2023 challenge of Wallpaper*, obtainable now in print, on the Wallpaper* app on Apple iOS, and to subscribers of Apple Information +. Subscribe to Wallpaper* in the present day (opens in new tab)
connerives.com (opens in new tab)