Denim reset: 2023 might be about revisiting the classics

If latest seasons have seen extra outré denim types reign supreme on the runway – the massive and dishevelled, the low-slung, the diamanté-encrusted or closely embellished – the start of a brand new 12 months presents time for a reset. Now could be the second for revisiting denim’s most timeless archetypes, from the traditional blue jean to the Western-style denim shirt, each gently refined and subtly subverted by an array of designers this season. 

Denim reset: a return to the classics

These items are revisited at Brunello Cucinelli, which has parlayed its near-unrivalled dedication to Italian craftsmanship to create denim each gentle and powerful, melding the material’s roots in workwear with the model’s intrinsic magnificence. An analogous refinement is obvious at Fendi, the place womenswear artistic director Kim Jones makes use of crisp indigo-dyed denim for equestrian-inspired clothes – a rounded skirt and buckle recalled the proportions of a saddle – and impeccably tailor-made high-waisted denims.

At Jacob Cöhen – an skilled within the medium, crafting its famed denim totally by hand in Veneto, Italy – sees boot-cut suits and gently-oversized denim jackets strike a 90s-inflected temper (a easy white tank supplies the proper companion). A raw-edge trench coat by Tod’s, in contrasting panels of washed denim, additionally recollects the undone glamour of the period, right here reinvigorated for the season forward.