For a style of Greece, head to this playful new restaurant in Chelsea

Ten years in the past, Pachamama Group disrupted the London eating scene with a collection of Peruvian-rooted culinary ideas that rapidly gained traction. The opening of Zēphyr in Notting Hill in 2022 marked the staff’s first pivot in the direction of a Greek-inspired providing. Now, in the same vein, Pachamama introduces Bottarga within the coronary heart of Chelsea, occupying the previous website of its second London restaurant, Chicama. The idea stems from a collection of analysis journeys throughout the Aegean islands over current summers, and brings within the recent, earthy flavours so beloved within the Mediterranean.

Wallpaper* dines at Bottarga, London

The temper: a unusual bistro-style setting

As a sequel to Zēphyr, Pachamama describes Bottarga as its ‘youthful and extra informal sibling with a homely providing’. The setting leans right into a quintessential bistro aesthetic, with picket flooring, wall panels and chairs, and slim tables wearing white fabric and illuminated by candlesticks. A collection of latest work by artwork director Lunara Bramley-Fento – that includes scribbled figures and messages – provides a playful distinction to the nostalgic décor. In the meantime, crockery has been chosen by model director Yaroslava Malkova from native vintage markets. Mixtapes curated by Greek DJ Georgios Kalamotousakis present the soundtrack.

The meals: a style of the Aegean

Open for lunch and dinner, Bottarga is a collaboration between the group’s founding chef, Adam Rawson, and Greek govt chef Tzoulio Loulai, who has drawn inspiration from the flavours of his childhood. The menu opens with a basket of freshly baked pita, grilled bakehouse sourdough, and crackers – finest loved with dips like tzatziki. The mezze choice options cold and warm crowd-pleasers, from saganaki tapioca bites coated in sesame, thyme and honey, to kolokithokeftedes (Greek-style zucchini fritters). A choice of uncooked plates provides a nod to the location’s Peruvian previous whereas offering a refreshing interlude.

For mains, you get to decide on between land and sea, with highlights together with the signature Bottarga orzo and UK ex-dairy ribeye on the bone from Txuleta, grilled over charcoal and served with a bone marrow stifado jus. Relating to dessert, employees will probably steer you in the direction of the chocolate burnt cheesecake, however for me, the orange pie with kumquat and orange cream was the proper end to an all-round lush Mediterranean meal.