Portuguese designer Sofia Esquivel attracts on an a background in structure for a set of jewelry which pays tribute to iconic buildings, from the constructivist aesthetics of La Muralla Roja structure by Ricardo Boffil to Studio Barozzi-Veiga’s geometric architectural facades.
‘This assortment is a mix of varied buildings and tales that encourage me in several methods,’ Esquivel tells us. ‘If one may be impressed by a particular archetype, one other piece may characteristic a facade element and even the reference to a cladding texture (just like the Barbican ring). In a nutshell, it actually is dependent upon the constructing or structure fashion I decide to discover and work with.’
‘Every design began as one single piece, and a few of them advanced into a set. For example, the Circle assortment was my first design and it began as a giant pair of earrings that options the surreal round concrete shapes within the desert of Arcosanti’s eco-town structure by Paolo Soleri within the Seventies, conceived as a job mannequin that would reveal an amalgamation of structure and ecology. The circle. assortment symbolizes the way forward for a extra sustainable atmosphere. Because the design labored very well in several sizes and outcomes, I made a decision to create a set of three sizes of earrings and necklaces, to offer individuals the chance to put on it in the way in which they like probably the most – some individuals are extra into bigger items, while others are extra into small delicate particulars.’
Rings, necklaces and earrings in brushed metals minimize robust, angular silhouettes in an aesthetic embodiment of minimalist architectural rules. ‘Once I’m designing one thing, the largest problem is of course juggling between the conceptual and technical points of every piece,’ Esquivel provides. ‘As I make them by hand, I’m very conscious of the fabric limitations, weight, thickness and processes, particularly when a design is to be translated into multiples. Every bit I design typically requires a special design method, prototyping or manufacturing course of, and it may well embody the usage of sources corresponding to computerized 3D modeling, wax carving, 3D printing, paper modeling and, clearly, hand sketching. I really feel it’s a wholesome inside battle between the designer and the maker.’
In addition to producing collections, the jewelry designer additionally takes commissions, which supply new design challenges. ‘Right here the purchasers are granted entry to a inventive perception, the place hand sketches and 3D pictures are a few of the outputs they get to see (and evaluate) earlier than the fabrication of the ultimate product.’
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