Within the exhibition Jewellery Objects, Sophie Buhai unveils a dreamy bespoke assortment of design items at Galerie Anne-Sophie Duval, a Parisian area flanking the Seine that neighbours the Dries Van Noten retailer and the Beaux Arts de Paris. The newly reopened gallery just lately underwent a renovation masterminded by French architect/designer Sylvain Dubuisson.
Los Angeles-based Buhai—identified for making shapely earrings and stone necklaces—launched her namesake jewelry model in 2015. Her collections have been featured within the Cooper Hewitt Smithsonian Design Museum and the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, in addition to at retailers like Dover Road Market and 10 Corso Como. All the pieces is made in Los Angeles. ‘We do our manufacturing, our design, our achievement, every little thing occurs there’, she says. ‘It feels outdated world.’ She works every day in her studio alongside her husband (who has a enterprise function) and a small group.
(Picture credit score: Sophie Buhai)
Jewellery Objects (on view till 30 June) spans 20 distinctive or limited-edition items, every bearing her delicate signature (actually, with a refined, delicate flourish). ‘These items are up to date, however they’re influenced by totally different moments in design historical past,’ Buhai says. Throughout the gallery, Buhai’s creations dialogue with items chosen by Blum: nesting tables in crimson lacquer by Katsu Hamanaka and a parchment and lacquer pedestal desk by Marcel Coard. ‘The gallery is admittedly identified for Artwork Deco, from the 20s up till most likely mid-century’, Buhai says. ‘Jean Michel Frank, Pierre Chareau, Rose Adler, Eileen Grey, Jean Dunane – these designers I’ve studied and are my inspirations.’
Buhai notes she began coming to Paris often 10 years in the past, a number of occasions a yr, to indicate her collections, ‘and that was actually an training for me… since you’re uncovered to a degree of magnificence that’s actually solely in Paris on this explicit manner’ provided that the ornamental there are celebrated and brought severely.
(Picture credit score: Sophie Buhai)
A few of Buhai’s items required collaborating with as much as 4 totally different craftspeople. ‘When you do not have to fret a couple of explicit value vary or how time-consuming a method will be on a bit since you’re solely making one or three of them, what you are able to do could be very uncompromised.’ There have been silversmiths and lapidaries Buhai had had a protracted relationship with from engaged on her foremost assortment. However she scouted an artisan primarily based in North Carolina who skilled in conventional urushi lacquer strategies in Japan, a method that yields a phenomenal end: ‘it is like 40 coats from the lacquer tree. It’s totally labor intensive and time-consuming”—however! ‘There’s a depth that comes from all of the layers.’ Probably the most complicated piece to execute was a silk-tasseled minaudière with a magnetic closure in black urushi lacquer (it resembles a small creature or ‘a 3rd eye’).
Furthermore, there’s a sterling silver cigarette holder wound with silver thorns and a pendulous drop of blood in garnet (‘very goth’). There’s a tiny hand mirror on the flip aspect of Black Onyx hand-carved picket shell with a freshwater pearl and an 18 karat gold vessel (‘kind of surrealist’). There are ‘lighters that match similar to an American BiC’ adorned with ‘actually good lapis—stunning, vibrant blue’. The jade and sterling silver cigarette holder suits ‘Capris or Vogues, or you possibly can put your joints in there’.
‘I like the concept of taking these mundane, on a regular basis objects and making them like a fantasy’, Buhai says of rethinking objects akin to a comb or a magnifying glass. Nevertheless, her items lean extra vice than advantage: ‘We have been joking that these are naughty objects: there’s the lighters, the cigarette holder, the flask, the knife… there’s just a little darkness,’ she says. ‘There are tablet bins—in chalcedony, Carnelian, lemon quartz—and they also’re stunning on a desk, however you may put them in your night bag, or in your vainness.’
(Picture credit score: Sophie Buhai)
The decorative nature of the items relative to their performance is at all times a skinny steadiness: Nobody would wish to put Buhai’s elegant sterling silver toothpick (contained in case with a jade prime and 18 karat gold) between their tooth, presumably? “I would not say it is one thing you utilize day by day, but when you are going to a chic dinner and also you want a toothpick, it is a conversational piece to tug out.’ For her Carnelian and onyx flask: ‘This you may put in your purse for a enjoyable night time out, otherwise you put it in your bar, and it simply seems actually stunning.’
A silver cup, one among two, prominently options rainbow moonstone. ‘It is used loads in New Age jewelry, however I used to be focused on how you may actually elevate it and make it fairly refined”, she says. Given the mainstreaming of astrology and spirituality, it appears very culturally resonant. ‘It is kind of hand in hand with wellness’, Buhai acknowledges. ‘All of those stones that I am utilizing—rock crystal, carnelian, lapis, jade—are all stones which were utilized in historical amulets and talismans, in antiquity and Center Ages, Renaissance, Historic Egypt, as much as Artwork Deco, the 70s… after which they form of fell out of trend. However I feel it is one thing innate in us that is attracted to those stones, that feels protected or highly effective once we convey them close to us.’
As for her personal jewelry habits? ‘That is quartz,’ she says extending a ringed hand. ‘It feels such as you’re sporting a crystal ball round your finger… That is my fortunate piece.’ Suspended round her neck is an easy onyx pendant: ‘I like taking a uncooked stone and carving it right into a sculptural form and sporting it.’ She notes: ‘Generally I do not put on something if I am within the studio and I simply wish to be snug. However it positively relies on your temper and what you are you wish to specific that day.’
Jewellery Objects is at Galerie Anne-Sophie Duval till 30 June
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