As seen within the September 2024 Type Concern of Wallpaper* – a mirrored image on a season outlined by tactility, texture and contact – 12 of A/W 2024’s defining males’s and womenswear moments, from scrunched-up Miu Miu gloves and decadent Ferragamo feathers to seductive leather-based ties and cocooning balaclavas.
Comfortable contact (prime left)
Enveloping textures, the pleasure of clothes on the pores and skin: this season is all about tactility. Cue a melange of furry, fuzzy, soft-to-the-touch textures – whether or not the teddy-bear really feel of a Dries Van Noten bag or the fluffy end of a Carven skirt.
Match level (prime proper)
This season noticed designers discover the co-ordinating accent, albeit in an surprising method – at Gucci, the tone of a leather-based glove met that of a purse, a part of Sabato De Sarno’s ongoing investigation of color and texture.
Parallel traces
Coat, worth on request, by Missoni (enquire at missoni.com). Sneakers, £535, by Dries Van Noten (enquire at driesvannoten.com). Tights, £28, by Falke (out there from falke.com)
(Picture credit score: Pictures by Alex Black, style by Jason Hughes)
The stripe is one among Missoni’s enduring motifs, usually showing in vivid color mixtures. Designer Filippo Grazioli paid homage to the sample in playful fashion, like with these shaggy knit stripes, which adorn an elongated overcoat.
Glossed over
Jacket; coat (in hand), each worth on request, by Jil Sander by Lucie and Luke Meier (enquire at jilsander.com). ‘Maralunga’ armchair, worth on request, by Vico Magistretti, for Cassina, from Monument (enquire at monumentstore.co.uk)
(Picture credit score: Pictures by Alex Black, style by Jason Hughes)
Slick, high-shine textures lent this season’s menswear a futuristic sheen. At Jil Sander, lustrous crackled-leather overcoats appeared as a part of a group that designers Lucie and Luke Meier described as an ‘immersive capsule, clean and embracing’.
Again out
Coat, £3,600; skirt, £1,100; underskirt, £3,750; hat, £1,470, all by Prada (enquire at prada.com). Tights, £28, by Falke (out there from falke.com)
(Picture credit score: Pictures by Alex Black, style by Jason Hughes)
At Prada’s womenswear present, the backs of tailor-made jackets have been sliced away, as if to reveal their lining, showing as a part of a group that noticed co-creative administrators Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons excavate historic silhouettes.
Arms on
Jacket, £4,450; skirt, £1,790; gloves, £780, all by Miu Miu (enquire at miumiu.com)
(Picture credit score: Pictures by Alex Black, style by Jason Hughes)
At Miu Miu’s present, rolled-up sleeves and heavy, worn-leather gloves instructed a lady at work. Certainly, gloves – largely outsized and scrunched up – appeared all through the collections, with iterations at The Row, Marni and Balenciaga.
Tied up
Shirt; tie, each worth on request, by Bottega Veneta (enquire at bottegaveneta.com)
(Picture credit score: Pictures by Alex Black, style by Jason Hughes)
The tie was reimagined by a gamut of designers. At Prada, it shaped a part of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ riff on the company uniform, whereas at Bottega Veneta, ties have been reduce from leather-based in Matthieu Blazy’s sometimes seductive fashion.
Superb feather
High, £935; skirt, £745, each by Ferragamo (enquire at ferragamo.com). Sneakers, £535, by Dries Van Noten (enquire at driesvannoten.com). Tights, £28, by Falke (out there from falke.com). ‘Maralunga’ armchair, worth on request, by Vico Magistretti, for Cassina, from Monument (enquire at monumentstore.co.uk)
(Picture credit score: Pictures by Alex Black, style by Jason Hughes)
A fascination with previous Hollywood glamour permeated Maximilian Davis’ collections for Ferragamo. Thrives of feathers sprouted from necklines or heeled pumps – an ode, stated Davis, to the liberatory gown codes of the Nineteen Twenties.
Slim probability
Jacket, £2,950; trousers, £630; footwear, £920, all by Fendi (enquire at fendi.com). Gloves, £665, by Dents (out there harrods.com)
(Picture credit score: Pictures by Alex Black, style by Jason Hughes)
Menswear designers offered a protracted and lean riposte to the outsized silhouette that has dominated latest seasons. Silvia Venturini Fendi was one such voice, presenting slim, straight-cut tailoring, impressed by the distinction between ‘city and nation’.
Hood occasions
Balaclava, £325, by Issey Miyake (enquire at isseymiyake.com)
(Picture credit score: Pictures by Alex Black, style by Jason Hughes)
The thought of safety featured prominently, with designers creating silhouettes that wrapped and enveloped. At Issey Miyake, balaclavas appeared as a part of a group that noticed Satoshi Kondo discover the instinctual ‘act of clothes the human physique’.
Second pores and skin
Jacket, £4,990; boots, £2,290, each by Burberry (enquire at burberry.com)
(Picture credit score: Pictures by Alex Black, style by Jason Hughes)
This season’s slick boots provide up a glamorous manner of defending the physique because the temperature drops. Such is the case with this pair by Daniel Lee, whose newest assortment for Burberry is impressed by the ‘heritage of the British open air’.
Buckle up
Shirt, £640; trousers, £1,520; hat, £630; tie, £220, all by Prada (out there at prada.com)
(Picture credit score: Pictures by Alex Black, style by Jason Hughes)
An outlined waistline added a nostalgic magnificence to the season’s menswear silhouette, whether or not in nipped-waist tailoring, tie-fastening overcoats or eye-catching belts, like these at Prada, which have been maybe A/W 2024’s most covetable accent.
Fashions: Jimai Hoth at PRM Company, Mohammed Banze at Wilhelmina. Casting: Ikki Casting at WSM. Set design: Kei Yoshino at Bryant Artists. Hair: Mayuko Nakae utilizing Oribe. Make-up: Sunao Takahashi at Saint Luke utilizing Chanel Fall-Winter 2024 Make-up Assortment and No.1 de Chanel Skincare. Manicure: Sabina Uzunovic at Snow Creatives utilizing Kure Bazaar. Pictures assistants: Callum Su, Joshua Hippolyte.
This text seems within the September 2024 difficulty of Wallpaper*, out there in print on newsstands, on the Wallpaper* app on Apple iOS, and to subscribers of Apple Information +. Subscribe to Wallpaper* immediately
Supply: Wallpaper
