After a number of seasons of upheaval and flux, the upcoming Ladies’s Vogue Week A/W 2025 will start to see the puzzle items fall into place as a variety of inventive administrators begin their tenures at a few of the world’s best-known manufacturers. These embody Sarah Burton at Givenchy, Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford, and Veronica Leoni at Calvin Klein (for Matthieu Blazy’s debut at Chanel, we must wait till September).
It makes for an intriguing season of exhibits, which then again incorporates a handful of notable absences from the schedule: Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger and Willy Chavarria will skip New York; Molly Goddard and JW Anderson will take the season off in London; whereas in Paris, Loewe is presently not slated to point out on-schedule. As for what this implies for upcoming seasons stays to be seen, although not one of the strikes are anticipated to be everlasting (as such, September will little question show far busier).
Elsewhere, there might be co-ed exhibits for Gucci and Fendi in Milan (the latter marking its centenary yr in enterprise), big-ticket exhibits from Burberry, Prada, Chanel, Miu Miu and Saint Laurent, whereas rising stars Paolo Carzana, Hodakova and Duran Lantink (the latter two Wallpaper* Design Awards winners) will carry new vitality to their respective cities.
Starting later this week in New York, earlier than a pause till later within the month for London, Milan and Paris, right here is the Wallpaper* information to Ladies’s Vogue Week A/W 2025.
Ladies’s Vogue Week A/W 2025: all the pieces you must know
New York Vogue Week (February 6 – 11 2025)
Whereas the remainder of the style capitals have shifted per week later to replicate the menswear and couture schedules earlier this yr, New York Vogue Week has remained steadfast in its early February dates. This implies it primarily stands alone this season: London will happen ten days after New York Vogue Week concludes (normally, it’s simply a few days later), with Milan and Paris following with out a break. It’s truthful to say the transfer has made for a considerably lowered schedule this season, with some notable absences, together with CFDA Award-winning American designer Willy Chavarria, who as a substitute confirmed throughout Paris Vogue Week Males’s A/W 2025, and Tommy Hilfiger, who final September staged his S/S 2025 present on a former Staten Island ferry (Ralph Lauren can be absent after his off-schedule Hamptons takeover final season).
That mentioned, the return of Calvin Klein will present the week’s largest second, seeing the American powerhouse stage its first runway present since Raf Simons departed as inventive director in 2018. The revamp might be led by Veronica Leoni, an Italian designer who labored at Jil Sander, Celine (throughout Phoebe Philo’s tenure) and The Row, earlier than founding Quira in 2021 (she would obtain an LVMH Prize nomination in 2023 for the younger label). Little is thought in regards to the course she’s going to take Calvin Klein – her official title is inventive director of Calvin Klein Collections – although all eyes might be on her on her come 7 February. Elsewhere, each Christopher John Rogers and Thom Browne will return to the runway (the latter after a season’s break), with New York stalwarts Tory Burch, Michael Kors, Eckhaus Latta, Khaite and Coach rounding out the schedule.
Alexa Chung walks in Tory Burch’s S/S 2025 present
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Tory Burch)
London Vogue Week (21 – 24 February 2025)
London Vogue Week can be lacking a handful of names this season – amongst them Molly Goddard, Aaron Esh, Chopova Lowena, SS Daley and, most notably, JW Anderson (Jonathan Anderson additionally pressed pause on his menswear present for the eponymous label in January). Marco Capaldo’s buzzy, Vogue Award-winning label 16Arlington has additionally shifted off the primary schedule, presenting as a substitute through an intimate dinner on the night of twenty-two January. The lowered schedule speaks to the rising difficulties of fostering an unbiased label in London, with many designers selecting to take a season-on, season-off method (anticipate the September version to be a busier affair).
Burberry will stay London Vogue Week’s largest draw, with Daniel Lee displaying his newest assortment for the British heritage model at an as-yet-undisclosed location (as has turn into a signature of the designer’s exhibits, anticipate a starry – however satisfyingly eclectic – entrance row). Different highlights embody exhibits from the week’s stalwart designers Simone Rocha, Roksanda and Erdem, whereas a brand new class of expertise might be launched through the most recent version of Lulu Kennedy’s expertise incubator Vogue East and the yearly Central Saint Martins MA present. Relating to rising stars, although, now we have our eyes on Paolo Carzana, whose intimate present in his personal east London again backyard was an plain spotlight of final season.
The present set for Burberry’s S/S 2025 present, which featured a collaboration with artist Gary Hume
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Burberry)
Milan Vogue Week (25 February – 2 March 2025)
Milan Vogue Week begins this season on the afternoon of 25 February, when Sabato De Sarno will present his newest assortment for Gucci. Having not proven throughout menswear month earlier this yr, the present might be co-ed, with De Sarno presenting the home’s A/W 2025 males’s and womenswear choices directly (as such, anticipate a blockbuster occurring, that includes a slew of the home’s starry ambassadors on the FROW). Fendi may also current a co-ed assortment through a particular present at its renovated HQ on Through Photo voltaic marking the Roman home’s centenary yr. Proceedings might be led by Silvia Venturini Fendi, inventive director of equipment and menswear, after the departure of womenswear inventive director Kim Jones late final yr. As but, the home has not revealed plans for the celebration, however judging by Fendi’s earlier occasions – like a road-blocking 2022 New York present which celebrated 25 years of the Baguette – it should probably be spectacular.
Elsewhere, anticipate the same old line-up of Italian mega manufacturers: Prada, Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani and Ferragamo will all present in the course of the week, although Bottega Veneta, after the exit of Matthieu Blazy and the next appointment of Louise Trotter, will take a season’s break (a lookbook will comprise a set by the interim design group). In the meantime, Missoni will herald a brand new period below Alberto Caliri, a longtime designer for the Italian knitwear home, who replaces Filippo Grazioli. Caliri will host his debut present on the night of 28 February.
Gucci’s S/S 2025 runway present
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Gucci)
Paris Vogue Week (3 – 11 March 2025)
As ever, Paris will host the closing leg of vogue month with a packed nine-day schedule that may notably embody the much-anticipated debut assortment from Sarah Burton at Givenchy on 7 March (the British designer was beforehand at Alexander McQueen for 26 years, together with 13 as inventive director). Haider Ackermann may also mark his debut at Tom Ford, a transfer that’s had the approval of the eponymous home founder, who exited to pursue different tasks in April 2023. ‘I’ve lengthy been an excellent fan of Haider’s work,’ Ford mentioned after the announcement final September. ‘We share lots of the similar historic references, and I couldn’t be extra excited to see what he does with the model. I believe that I would be the first on my toes to applaud after his present in March.’ Julian Klausner may also host his debut present for Dries Van Noten on 5 March.
We must wait a bit longer for a few of the different regime adjustments: Matthieu Blazy is not going to present his debut assortment for Chanel till September, leaving the A/W 2025 assortment within the arms of the home’s interim design group. In the meantime Loewe – the place rumours swirl about inventive director Jonathan Anderson’s potential subsequent strikes – has chosen to sit down this season out, following an analogous pause throughout males’s vogue week final month. There may be nonetheless a lot to see: Alaïa, which has historically proven throughout high fashion week, will be a part of the ready-to-wear schedule (the present will happen on 4 March), whereas Louis Vuitton will shift a day earlier, displaying on 10 March (normally, it closes proceedings alongside Chanel and Miu Miu on the ultimate day). Different highlights embody rising labels (and Wallpaper* Design Awards winners) Hodakova and Duran Lantink, Alessandro Michele’s sophomore assortment for Valentino, and a no-doubt showstopping end from Saint Laurent, who will shut the week on the night of 11 March.
Supply: Wallpaper
