As we head into the season’s golden part, a jewelry style-shift beckons. From mild, shimmering leather-based to abalone shell and vibrant semi-precious stones, this summer time, unbiased designers are combining pure, man-made and valuable supplies to extremely wearable impact.
Sterling Silver
Belgian model Lore Van Keer presents a covetable assortment of sterling-silver jewelry
Silver gleams in daylight and, because it blends properly with most skintones, it is an ideal alternative for summer time. That it is not as valuable as gold permits for greater items and people indicators of wear and tear, destined so as to add the distinctive, time-worn patina that provides a private stamp. Belgian model Lore Van Keer gives a covetable line in super-fine 18kt gold and precious-stone items. It additionally presents a critically fashionable assortment of sterling silver jewelry. Every bit is responsibly made and goldsmith-created on the model ateliers in Belgium and that, maybe, provides the Lore Van Keer aesthetic its basic enchantment. But, volumes are toyed with, semi-precious stones and diamonds are thrown into the combo, and there’s a defining architectural really feel to the designs. Coupled with contrasting curves, cloudy moonstones, olive-green tourmalines and cognac citrines, the entire is an intriguing full assortment.
Finematter.com
Fake-gem Fusion
Vicki Sarge’s designs embrace items produced from fake gems, beads and plate steel
(Picture credit score: Vicki Sarge)
Beads have at all times surfed the waves of recognition as a jewel alternative. Their humble, often-organic, or plastic beach-jewel nature has tended to render them nugatory in each financial and magnificence phrases. More and more, nevertheless, main homes, together with Chanel and Dries Van Noten, are weaving them by way of collections. It’s a very good second to revisit the creations of Vicki Sarge who, in addition to creating bespoke items for Rihanna, and catwalk jewels for designers similar to Raf Simons and Erdem, was co-founder of famed costume jeweller, Erickson Beamon. This yr, she established an eponymous boutique in South Kensington. Whereas Sarge continues to create one-off commissions in her trademark fusion of fake gems, hand-painted stones, beads and gold- and silver-plate metals, the boutique can also be designed as a springboard for a brand new technology of costume-jewellery designers. At current, the web site would not fairly dwell as much as the boutique’s wares, so it is value popping in.
Vickisarge.com
Informal Diamonds
Jade Trau’s signature diamond designs reveal an skilled’s lightness of contact
(Picture credit score: Jade Trau)
New York-based Jade Trau is a former diamond purchaser. However then, the informal method by which she incorporates them into her signature chain designs shows an skilled’s lightness of contact. Trau additionally has a pure expertise for layering, in order that her ensembles by no means look too trend-driven. Right here’s how she does it: ‘When sporting necklaces, I typically begin with our lengthy “Betty” chain, as its malleable hook permits it to be worn at differing lengths. Then I might add a heavier hyperlink chain, and prime all the things off with a diamond piece.’ In relation to earrings, Trau is a self-confessed ‘Queen of the huggies. In truth, I sleep in them, as I discover them so comfy.’ Bracelets, she advises, must be easy, ‘As sun-creams can get in the way in which’. Her go-to combine is a lightweight, ID chain, slim, gold bangle and a heavy tennis-style diamond-bracelet. ‘This wrist combo is my model of a tattoo as I by no means take them off.’ As a remaining level, Trau advises protecting rings low-key. ‘I desire to put on one on my pinkie and one other on my thumb.’
Jadetrau.com
harrods.com
Treasured Color
New York excessive jewelry designer Kia Schwan admits: ‘I’m merely in love with color’
(Picture credit score: Kia Schwan)
A contact of sweet color in summer time feels pretty much as good as a heat ray of sunshine on the pores and skin, and jewelry designer Kia Schwan gives a supremely elegant answer: diamond rings with lush geometric stacks of semi-precious hardstones, framed in gold and valuable gems. Working in precision-cut stone rounds, the New York designer is, above all else, regularly drawn to color, ‘I discover a semi-translucent, lavender chalcedony simply as alluring as a flawless diamond,’ she admits. There’s architectural concord in Schwan’s trademark semi-precious stone stacks, too. The designer, who beforehand labored at Harry Winston and Tiffany & Co, is constantly enamoured by the beloved cityscape of her residence metropolis, citing it as a key design inspiration.
Kiaschwan.com
Carved Hardstones
Lito’s ‘Mouth’ necklaces are created in numerous hardstone colors
(Picture credit score: Lito)
Lito, the Greek jeweller who has labored for Jean Paul Gaultier and collaborated with L’Objet, has a gorgeously playful method to jewelry. However then, not being professionally educated, she’s not shy of making an attempt new issues and embracing imperfection. Her “La Bouche” assortment is made for summer time, or certainly any celebration. It’s clear that the designer educated as a sculptor, as she was decided that her luscious lip pendants be carved in numerous hardstones, together with pink quartz, ruby, aventurine and agate, in order that ‘they appeared as actual as doable’. Additionally, their opaque nature permits for sun-filled color. ‘It was essential to me that the lips had been full, each back and front, and that they sit completely on the pores and skin, as a kiss ought to,’ she provides. The stones had been chosen to create totally different moods and emotions. ‘You possibly can have a lightweight kiss, mushy kiss, laborious kiss, enjoyable kiss – whichever kiss most fits your spirit,’ she says.
litofinejewelry.com
Shell and Discovered Objects
Designer Clare Corrigan’s designs have ‘discovered’ enchantment
(Picture credit score: Claire Corrigan)
A former ready-to-wear designer at Karl Lagerfeld, the place she was a gentle presence in his Paris studio all through the Nineteen Nineties, Clare Corrigan went on to work as costume-jewellery design director to Marc Jacobs. Her most up-to-date stints have included creating catwalk jewels for Grace Wales Bonner (Spring 2023) and with Louise Trotter for Carven. The one-of-a-kind commissions she creates in the present day brim with a vivacity that encapsulates her cultural passions, from David Bowie to Navajo American crafts, Andrew Grima and The Bauhaus’ Anni Albers. Briefly, she admits to a ‘love of humble supplies and the way in which issues obtain opulence by way of the way in which they’re handled.’ Corrigan significantly likes working with mother-of-pearl- like abalone shell, a prized materials in Native American crafts, whereas her penchant for collected and located articles provides an Arte Povera character to her creations.
Instagram.com/clare_studio
Gleaming Leather-based
Leather-based offcuts change into glowing jewels in Sole Ferragamo’s palms
(Picture credit score: So-Le Studio)
So-Le Studio’s sculptural earrings, rings, cuffs and necklaces are so expertly, exactly created that, at first look, you do not query they’re crafted in gold and silver. It’s at all times a shock, then, to search out that they’re super-light to put on and truly manufactured from leather-based. A Central Saint Martin’s graduate, Maria Sole Ferragamo has been utilizing materials offcuts from factories run by her household’s Italian shoe-design enterprise since 2019. At the moment, she has collaborations with Sotheby’s and Elisabetta Cipriai Gallery below her belt, and excursions the globe exhibiting her jewels at artwork festivals together with Artwork Basel and Miart, Milan. As her designs change into ever extra bold, it is apparent that the extra she explores leather-based as a jewel materials, Maria Sole Ferragmo’s design imaginative and prescient solely will get stronger.
So-le-studio.com
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