London Vogue Week A/W 2024 heralds the fortieth anniversary of the occasion, which regardless of earlier iterations, was inaugurated within the early Eighties by British PR maven Lynne Franks (Franks was mentioned to be the inspiration behind Completely Fabulous’ Edina Monsoon). Since, the week has held its distinctive stability of rising stars – maybe finest represented by vogue incubator Vogue East – and town’s blockbuster names, from Vivienne Westwood to Burberry (and even featured an look from Queen Elizabeth II, who attended a Richard Quinn present in 2018).
This newest version appears to be like set to proceed the week’s legacy, starting on Friday night with a return to London Vogue Week from historic British home Dunhill after 4 years (it heralds the arrival of recent inventive director Simon Holloway). Elsewhere, maybe the 2 largest attracts are JW Anderson – its eponymous designer Jonathan Anderson first rose to prominence at Vogue East within the 2010s – and Burberry, the place Daniel Lee will present his third runway present for the historic British label. Rounding out the schedule are a mixture of the week’s stalwarts, together with Molly Goddard, Simone Rocha, Roksanda, Erdem and Ahluwalia, alongside a raft of next-generation expertise, from KNWLS, Aaron Esh and Conner Ives to the Central Saint Martins MA vogue present.
Right here, reporting dwell from the exhibits, Wallpaper* vogue options editor Jack Moss rounds up the very best of London Vogue Week A/W 2024.
One of the best of London Vogue Week A/W 2024
Dunhill
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Dunhill)
For its first runway present since 2020 – and the primary assortment from newly put in inventive director Simon Holloway – Dunhill selected the Duveen Wing of the Nationwide Portrait Gallery, a sequence of rooms inaugurated by King George V and Queen Mary in 1933. The historic venue nodded in the direction of a return to classicism for the British model (itself in its a hundred and thirtieth yr), a temper additionally captured in present’s the structure, which with its low-lit particular person tables, gin martinis and dainty plates of cucumber and caviar sandwiches nodded in the direction of conventional salon-style vogue displays of the early twentieth century.
’This assortment celebrates our origins and subsequent evolution into a singular British luxurious home,’ defined Holloway of the A/W 2024 assortment, which sought to seize Dunhill’s wealthy tailoring heritage and custom of dressing figures from stage and display screen (earlier within the week, the model hosted a star-studded pre-BAFTA occasion, a touch in the direction of this new route). So the gathering itself ran the gamut of what Holloway referred to as the ‘finer issues in life’ – whether or not motor racing (recalled within the suede subject jacket worn by mannequin Equipment Butler, or the leather-based driving gloves all through), jaunts to the nice outside (gabardine chinos, blazers in heritage checks and twine, aran-stitch cashmere sweaters) or a swathe of night put on, together with a chic ivory riff on the tuxedo with matching bowtie and overcoat (worn right here with a sneaker).
‘[These are the things] we’ve got at all times achieved finest,’ concluded Holloway of the gathering, which felt like one thing of a palette cleanser for his tenure forward. ‘I hope we’ve got re-captured that spirit, one that’s directly refined and worldwide,’
Vogue East
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Vogue East)
There was an fascinating synchronicity to this season’s Vogue East designers Olly Shinder and Johanna Parv – the latter in her third and last season on the expertise incubator – who each offered their very own distinct riffs on the nine-to-five wardrobe. Shinder, who final season introduced a debut assortment of items impressed by the sporty, sleazy nightlife uniforms of Berlin and London, the place the designer splits his time. Soundtracked as soon as once more by photographer Wolfgang Tillmans, right here Shinder turned his consideration in the direction of the company uniform, which was ‘queered… displaced, subverted and refined’. So there was a tackle ’center managerial’ shirting, which appeared to have been grasped on the collar and sliced down the again, whereas different items continued Shinder’s extra acquainted exploration of workwear, with clean-lined purposeful units with PVC on the sleeves and over the trousers, as if fashions had been about to cope with hazardous supplies. Certainly, Shinder likened his studio to a lab, when producing this season’s assortment. Finishing the lineup had been items primed for the dance ground: slick, semi-shirted latex bodysuits, or abbreviated mini shorts in black and silver. Judging by buzz, he already has an viewers for these garments.
Parv, in the meantime, is a designer who appears to be like in the direction of the performance of sportswear by toggle and adjustable fastenings, and technical materials, trying to duplicate them throughout the complete gamut of a girl’s wardrobe. This season, a cultured assortment continued this method with what she mentioned was impressed by the ‘topography of town’, and the calls for of city life. The temper was darker, and extra sensual than beforehand – the skirt swimsuit was sliced open on the entrance and shoulders – whereas zip-up mini clothes had been featherweight of their fabrication. As ever, a sequence of intelligent equipment accompanied within the type of leather-based bumbags and purses with an adjustable nylon strap, evocative of these discovered on a backpack. It is going to be fascinating to see what Parv does subsequent.
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Vogue East)
Supply: Wallpaper
