Magliano returns to Pitti Uomo to reverse the principles on menswear

‘An investigation into the idea of the basic which applies to the whole lot as an absolute rule and but stays completely reversible on the identical time,’ is how Luca Magliano coined his A/W 2024 assortment proven at Pitti Uomo on Wednesday night in Florence.

It’s a abstract that neatly encapsulates the younger Italian designer’s strategy to being part of the style system on his personal phrases and one which has made him a breakout star since he launched his namesake model, Magliano, in 2017.

Magliano A/W  2024 at Pitti Uomo

‘It’s about treating with a wild irony a stereotyped supreme of manhood by messing with the basics of a basic wardrobe,’ Magliano instructed Wallpaper*. ‘That’s the reason we began from the very starting to play with the principles in a really irreverent method.’

Magliano has repeatedly challenged binary and societal stereotypes via the platform his model supplies him with. ‘Gender is an open dialog that wants as many representations as human beings are,’ he says merely.

For this assortment, his ripping up of the standard rulebook took on one thing of an intimate, city ethereality. Staged within the Nelson Mandela Discussion board area (that may be extra incessantly discovered floodlit for sports activities occasions and company occasions) the lights have been intimately low with the auditorium seating dramatically pulled aside as much as make method for an imposing carpeted staircase from which the fashions of all ages descended. 

Magliano mentioned it was ‘to create a second that reminds of cinema extra so than actuality,’ resembling ‘a tool of pressure and an impromptu event for glamour; a vertical construction that unites high and backside, in a merciless political metaphor, or queer re-match.’

His garments took on the identical oxymoronic strategy. Tailoring was sculpturally twisted and pinned, showing inside out with exterior silk pockets; knitwear got here layered and cinched with tight leather-based belts; and sweaters have been outsized and enveloping (an ode to the signature fashion of the feminist poet Patrizia Cavalli who died final yr).

Fits and hats have been made in collaboration with fellow Italian manufacturers Kiton and Borsalino, security footwear got here from U-Energy and slippers courtesy of a partnership with Ugg, whereas binders have been made in collaboration with Amsterdam-based Untag. Elsewhere, studded leather-based purses swung in tandem with plastic buyers.

‘It’s the method of synthesis to present as many evocations as attainable via design,’ he mentioned. ‘We used to say that designing was like surgically creating this new monstrous creature the place allergic universes have been joined collectively: that is each an aesthetic and an ethic rule.’

This present was a return to the place it began for Magliano, who made his debut on the showcase 5 years in the past in 2018. Within the time since, Magliano has each persistently raised the bar and moved the needle, a momentum that resulted in him being awarded joint winner of the Karl Lagerfeld Particular Jury Prize on the 2023 LVMH Award (alongside Julie Pelipas’ model Bettter). With a grant of 200,000 euros and a one-year mentorship program from the LVMH Group underneath his belt, his victorious return to Florence was akin to ‘coming again house,’ he instructed Wallpaper*. 

Residence for Magliano is definitely Bologna, a metropolis that fuels each the designer’s private id and that of his model. ‘I really like the underground state of affairs that traditionally takes place,’ he says. ‘Bologna brings extra “provincia” to my narrative, a powerful magic realism.’

As his fashions assembled to ascend the steps for the finale in Florence, it was his narrative of cohesion and neighborhood that was most palpable; fairly probably Magliano’s most profitable creation of all.

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