And so begins the style calendar for one more 12 months – with barely a pause to catch breath after the winter break, Males’s Vogue Week A/W 2024 will begin on January 9 with the arrival of the a hundred and fifth version of Pitti Uomo, the menswear truthful which takes place in Florence twice-yearly. Stops in Milan and Paris will observe: on the former count on Sabato De Sarno’s menswear debut, a return to town for Jonathan Anderson and the same old slew of Milanese classics. On the latter, Pharrell Williams will reply the query of simply how he can high the sheer spectacle of his blockbuster menswear debut at Louis Vuitton final June along with his sophomore outing for the storied home.
Right here, all the things Wallpaper* is aware of about Males’s Vogue Week A/W 2024 (to this point).
Males’s Vogue Week A/W 2024: what to anticipate
Pitti Uomo (9 – 12 January 2024)
Magliano’s A/W 2023 assortment. The Bologna-based model will probably be certainly one of Pitti Uomo’s visitor designers this season, alongside British model S.S. Daley
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Magliano)
If the January version of Florentine menswear truthful Pitti Uomo is named being extra low-key than its June-time counterpart (partly because of its notoriously chilly winter temperatures), this season’s schedule is satisfyingly packed. Visitor designers embody Magliano and S.S. Daley; the fledgling manufacturers, Italian and British respectively, have a equally liberated strategy to creating their collections, which regularly are rooted in an exploration of sophistication and identification. Magliano, helmed by Luca Magliano, is predicated in Bologna, town’s wealthy historical past of protest and subculture offering inspiration, whereas Steven Stokey-Daley (the designer behind S.S. Daley) is an remark of Britain’s still-prevalent class system, explored via theatrical, history-seeped collections.
Elsewhere, American designer Todd Sydner will present a group on the truthful, whereas Achilles Ion Gabriel, the colorful designer behind cult Majorcan shoe model Camper, will present his first eponymous trend assortment on January 11 at 12pm. Italian model Tod’s will reveal an anticipated collaboration with Automobili Lamborghini, Guess Denims will reveal a sustainable various to its conventional stonewashing (‘a springboard for the following 4 a long time’), whereas Brunello Cucinelli will host a usually lavish dinner, heralding the arrival of the model’s A/W 2024 assortment. Lastly, Margaret Howell will carry her current London exhibition of Architectural Evaluate covers to her riverside Florence retailer.
Milan Vogue Week Males’s (16 – 20 June 2023)
JW Anderson S/S 2024 present, held this previous June. Jonathan Anderson will proceed to point out his menswear assortment in Milan this season
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of JW Anderson)
One other version of Milan Vogue Week Males’s will open with a debut of kinds: Sabato De Sarno’s first menswear assortment for Gucci, which follows his womenswear debut for the Italian home final September. If that set the tone for the Italian designer’s tenure, count on extra ‘Ancora Rosso’ – the designer’s signature oxblood-red hue – alongside his luxurious, irreverent riffs on wardrobe classics (his womenswear assortment included white tank tops, denim denims, tailoring, knits and hoodies, alongside prospers of glamour, like crystal-covered child doll robes and Sixties-inspired jewelry). The present will happen on 16 January at 3pm Milan time; at 6pm the identical day, Stone Island will host its personal very first runway present.
The remainder of the calendar gives a typical feast of Milanese trend fare: Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, Emporio and Giorgio Armani, and Zegna will all present their newest collections, whereas London-based Jonathan Anderson continues to decide on the Italian metropolis to current his eponymous menswear line, displaying at 7pm on 14 January.
Paris Vogue Week Males’s (16 – 20 June 2023)
Louis Vuitton menswear S/S 2024, which marked Pharrell Williams’ debut on the home. He’ll current his second assortment on the opening night of Paris Vogue Week Males’s
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton)
After a blockbuster debut – which passed off on Paris’ Pont Neuf and concerned attendees being shipped in by boat – all eyes will little doubt be on Pharrell Williams as he presents his sophomore menswear present for Louis Vuitton at 8pm on Tuesday 18 (although there are different reveals all through the day, the no-doubt star-studded taking place will mark the opening of Paris Vogue Week Males’s correct).
Day two will see the primary Givenchy present after Matthew M Williams’ departure in December – the gathering will probably be designed by an in-house staff – earlier than one other Parisian outing from British designer Grace Wales Bonner, who will present below her eponymous label at 6:30pm that night. Different highlights embody Rick Owens’ distinct model of showmanship (final menswear season, monumental colored explosions adorned the air in regards to the Palais de Tokyo present area), Loewe (Anderson received plaudits all through 2023) and Kim Jones’ newest outing at Dior, seeing the designer enter his sixth 12 months on the Parisian maison.
Finishing the schedule is the same old roster of established names, together with Paul Smith, Comme des Garçons, Issey Miyake, Dries Van Noten, Valentino and Hermès, alongside an brisk new vanguard of designers – amongst them Botter, Kiko Kostadinov and Winnie – firmly holding their very own.
Supply: Wallpaper
