The top of 2024 got here with a flurry of bulletins: John Galliano was set to go away Maison Margiela after a decade, Matthieu Blazy could be the brand new inventive director of Chanel, whereas Louise Trotter – previously of Carven – was to switch Blazy at Bottega Veneta. Earlier than that, there was information that Sarah Burton was appointed as inventive director of Givenchy, Haider Ackermann would head up Tom Ford, and Kim Jones would exit Fendi as inventive director of the home’s womenswear and couture collections (his substitute is but to be introduced). Lanvin, Dries Van Noten and Celine have additionally newly instated design leads (Peter Copping, Julian Klausner and Michael Rider respectively), whereas rumours proceed to swirl about additional actions in style’s long-running sport of musical chairs.
Which is to say that 2025 sees style in a state of flux: with all of those appointments and exits being introduced within the latter half of 2024, the outcomes of this new draft of designers – or certainly, the departures of others – but to be revealed on the runway. And, whereas this leaves a notice of uncertainty, it additionally units the stage for an thrilling season forward, as style reshapes itself in what is likely to be dramatic new methods – as ever, it’s intriguing to see which of those appointments actually catches fireplace with each critic and shopper. Watch this house.
Males’s Vogue Week A/W 2025, which begins on 14 January 2025 in Florence for Pitti Uomo, and continues in Milan and Paris, will start a brand new yr in style and with it, clues to the shifts forward. Right here, all the pieces we all know to date in regards to the upcoming style month.
Pitti Uomo (14–16 January 2025)
Beginning every week later this season – giving some grace to designers after what was a fast turnaround post-Christmas holidays – historic Florentine menswear honest Pitti Uomo marks its 107th version this yr, taking on the 14th century Fortezza da Basso with an exhibition of over 700 manufacturers. Themed this yr across the phrase ‘Fireplace’ (a recognition, say the organisers, of ‘the generative energy of this primal factor’), the forward-facing honest guarantees its distinctive fusion of heritage and newness, separated over 5 predominant zones throughout the exhibition house (‘Implausible Traditional’, ‘Futuro Maschile’, ‘Dynamic Angle’, ‘Superstyling’, and ‘I Go Out’). ‘Vogue goes via a posh part of transition and right here at Pitti Immagine, we will’t simply stand by and watch,’ says Raffaello Napoleone, the CEO of Pitti Immagine. ‘For example, we’ve pushed greater than ever earlier than on mixing product classes, boldly mixing style and way of life’. (One such change, he notes, is a deal with operating apparel, which organisers see as a burgeoning menswear class.)
Although as ever, it’s the occasion’s annual custom of inviting visitor designers to point out on the week which can present Pitti Uomo 107’s most notable moments (earlier visitor designers have included Raf Simons, Craig Inexperienced, Grace Wales Bonner, Martine Rose and JW Anderson, amongst others). For this newest version it’s the flip of Setchu, an Italy-based label run by Japanese designer Satoshi Kuwata. Profitable the LVMH Prize in 2023, Kuwata has swiftly constructed a following for his riffs on archetypal menswear clothes which mix a temper of chic restraint with an avant-garde method to sample chopping and kind (we sit up for see his work in a proper present setting). Becoming a member of Kuwata is MM6, the 1997-founded diffusion line of Maison Margiela, at present helmed by a collective of designers and normally proven in Milan. Setchu and MM6 will present on the evenings of the 15 and 16 January respectively.
Setchu x Davies and Son, which was present finally yr’s Venice Biennale. This yr, Setchu will present as visitor designer at Pitti Uomo in Florence
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Setchu)
Milan Vogue Week Males’s (17-21 January 2025)
This season, Milan Vogue Week Males’s is probably notable for its absences: significantly JW Anderson, which started displaying within the metropolis in 2022, and Gucci, which has shifted again to a co-ed presentation with Sabato De Sarno possible displaying his newest males’s and girls’s collections collectively subsequent month as a part of the womenswear schedule. Fendi can be at present absent from the week (the home will reportedly have a good time its centenary yr with a bigger present in February), whereas Martine Rose – who confirmed final season in Milan for the primary time – has chosen to not return.
Admittedly, this makes for a considerably extra scant style week than earlier iterations, although the Italian style capital will proceed to play host to among the month’s most anticipated reveals, like Prada, whereby co-creative administrators Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons have a knack for outlining the temper of the season forward. Different no-doubt blockbuster reveals will embrace Dolce & Gabbana, Emporio Armani, Zegna and Giorgio Armani, amongst others. Dunhill may also present as soon as once more in Milan after its debut within the metropolis final season, whereas British designer Saul Nash will swap London for Milan in what guarantees to be a brand new chapter for his burgeoning label.
Prada’s S/S 2025 menswear present, held this previous June in Milan. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons will present their A/W 2025 menswear assortment later this month
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Prada)
Paris Vogue Week Males’s (21–26 January 2025)
Because it has been in current seasons, Paris will present not solely the fruits of menswear month, but in addition probably the most show-dense schedule, starting with Pharrell Williams’ newest outing at Louis Vuitton menswear on 21 January (anticipate a megawatt present with a usually star-studded entrance row). Equally blockbuster can be Kim Jones’ newest outing for Dior Males – a notable event for the designer, who lately left his position as inventive director of Fendi’s womenswear and couture collections to focus on his menswear collections for Dior. ‘[I] and sit up for persevering with to witness his creativity at Dior,’ stated Bernard Arnault, chairman and CEO of LVMH, the conglomerate of which each Fendi and Dior are a component, in an announcement on the time.
Different highlights will embrace Rick Owens’ newest outing for his eponymous model (it should possible be held as soon as once more on the Palais de Tokyo, after a quick transfer to his personal Parisian dwelling at the beginning of final yr), Issey Miyake (the Japanese label will present its IM Males assortment for the primary time on 23 January), and Comme des Garçons Homme Plus. There are a handful of recent arrivals, too: Willy Chavarria will shift from New York to Paris, displaying on 24 January, SS Daley will debut in Paris having beforehand proven in London, and Jacquemus will host a devoted menswear present. Closing out the week is Peter Copping’s debut at Lanvin, the British designer displaying his first males’s and womenswear collections collectively on the night of 26 January.
Willy Chavarria’s S/S 2025 runway present. The designer will swap New York for Paris this season, displaying on 24 January, 2025
(Picture credit score: Images by Giovanni Giannoni by way of Getty Photos)
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