Marylebone restaurant Nina turns up the amount on Italian eating

Simply once you thought London’s urge for food for Italian eating was waning, alongside comes one other new restaurant serving tiramisu as large as it could get. Within the coronary heart of Marylebone, Nina presents an intriguing equation: sun-soaked Amalfi recipes, Milanese panache-drenched interiors, and a touch of commercial cool – as a result of, actually, what might go fallacious? The vitality on the Pachamama Group’s newest opening is electrical, and London’s crowd is already smitten. One month in, reservations are a scorching commodity.

Wallpaper* dines at Nina, London

The temper: nonna goes to Berghain

As a rule in London, when a menu is dotted with pasta icons and coastal favourites, the interiors comply with go well with, making an attempt to channel the spirit of the seaside – as if to distract diners from the town’s fickle climate. Nina, then again, embraces the moodiness of a British wet day and pairs it with the edgier design aptitude present in Milan’s southeastern corners.

In opposition to a palette of sentimental beiges, wabi-sabi-inspired partitions reveal uncooked brickwork that collides with a desaturated leopard-print wallpaper. A glass block subtly divides one of many principal eating areas from the mirrored bar and its gleaming chrome steel again bar. Silver accents and quirky artworks – all chosen by venture and artwork director Lunara Bramley-Fenton, who additionally dressed Bottarga – complement the glass and metal plates the dishes arrive on. Underfoot, a heat picket ground grounds the area, gently reminding diners that they haven’t wandered into Berghain.

The meals: completely executed conventional flavours

It have to be stated: twirling spaghetti to the rhythm of digital beats is a brand new expertise. In a method, the meals at Nina isn’t transportive – it’s totally conscious of its stylish environment and completely in tune with London’s present obsession with uncooked plates. The menu, developed by the group’s inventive director, Yaroslava Malkova, isn’t in depth, nevertheless it’s dedicated to beautiful renditions of Italian favourites, led by the chief chef, Tzoulio Loulai. There aren’t any specials right here; every dish guarantees high quality. The home focaccia with parmesan butter units the tone, grilled to perfection and unmistakably artisanal.

Don’t make the error of ordering the anchovy bruschetta with semi-dried tomato paste instantly after – or possibly do. In any case, we’re not at Nina to rely energy. Pasta arrives confidently: bottarga linguine, cacio e pepe, spaghetti al pomodoro – to call just some. After that, go for a meaty principal, or skip forward to dessert with the boozy tiramisu al cucchiaio or the stracciatella burnt cheesecake. There’s no smoking indoors, however the Marlboro spritz – aperitivo, prosecco, and cherry – is a strong nicotine substitute.

Nina is situated at 18 Thayer St, London W1U 3JY, UK; nina.london