Milan Style Week Males’s arrives this weekend within the Italian style capital with a considerably depleted schedule: with Gucci and Fendi selecting to point out co-ed throughout womenswear week subsequent month, and JW Anderson sitting the menswear season out, there’s loads of chatter in regards to the relative sedateness of the four-day-long occasion, and thus its future.
Regardless of this, there are sufficient highlights to retain a largely buoyant temper, not least the persevering with pull of Prada, whereby co-creative administrators Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons set the style agenda season-on-season with more and more cerebral collections that are nonetheless rooted within the actuality of clothes (an intriguing invite arrived within the type of a slice of steel scaffolding, engraved with the Prada emblem). The present will happen tomorrow afternoon (19 January 2025).
Elsewhere, there’s the same old run of Italian mega-brands: Dolce & Gabbana’s musing on red-carpet model came about earlier immediately to a backdrop of flashing paparazzi (‘the private and non-private sides of cinema icons,’ described Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce of the La Dolce Vita-impressed assortment), whereas at Emporio Armani the eponymous designer explored the thought of ‘seduction’ in usually louche model. Zegna, Giorgio Armani, Dunhill and rising Bologna-based label Magliano will spherical out the week, alongside a slew of shows, from Tod’s and Brunello Cucinelli to Our Legacy, Stone Island and C.P. Firm.
Right here, reporting dwell from Milan, Wallpaper* style options editor Jack Moss unpacks the highlights from Milan Style Week Males’s A/W 2025, as they occur.
The perfect of Milan Style Week Males’s A/W 2025
Dolce & Gabbana
Dolce & Gabbana A/W 2025 menswear
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Dolce & Gabbana)
Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce are well-versed in red-carpet dressing: they’ve outfitted just about each Hollywood energy participant since they based the Italian maison within the mid-Nineteen Eighties, their clothes a mainstay of premieres and award ceremonies the world over (together with dressing a coveted Finest Actress Oscar winner in Susan Sarandon for Lifeless Man Strolling in 1996). For this season’s menswear present, housed in Dolce & Gabbana’s Metropol area (fittingly, a former cinema) the pair turned the runway right into a burgundy-hued purple carpet flanked by hordes of sharply-dressed paparazzi, whose cameras flashed and whirred because the fashions made their means onto the runway (the present’s title, as printed on the crimson invite, was ‘Paparazzi’).
The inspiration, they mentioned, started with Federico Fellini’s La Dolce Vita, a longtime touchpoint for the designers and the movie through which the phrase ‘paparazzi’ was first coined. Its affect was felt notably within the latter half of the gathering – a sequence of riffs on the tuxedo, nipped on the waist with a cummerbund or adorned with glimmering crystal brooches and buttons – although the gathering largely performed with a extra modern imagining of a number one man, recalling D&G collections of the early 2000s in bulked-up faux-fur jackets, slouchy denim denims and cargo pants, baker-boy hats, and thrives of leopard print and sequins. ‘The private and non-private sides of cinema icons… an actors’ way of life from daybreak to nightfall, from the consolation of free time to the magnificence of the purple carpet,’ the pair described of the gathering, which in its undone glamour continued their astute return to the codes which outlined Dolce & Gabbana within the Nineteen Nineties and 2000s.
Emporio Armani
Emporio Armani A/W 2025 menswear
(Picture credit score: Images by Piero Cruciatti/AFP by way of Getty Pictures)
Giorgio Armani mentioned that he was fascinated about the thought of ‘seduction’ this season at Emporio Armani – the ability of clothes to ‘draw individuals in, to captivate’. He largely did so by a wealthy and tactile catalogue of materials, from molten velvet – used for usually fluid tailoring – to glimmering lurex knitwear and patchworked brocades. The latter conjured a temper of journey, which continued in an evocation of clothes for traversing mountainous realms, from enveloping yeti fake furs to puffer jackets and climbing backpacks. To explain these shifts between the practical (crossbody–baggage, technical outerwear, utility pockets) and extra typical moments of Armani-esque glamour, the designer mentioned he was keen on exploring the interaction of ‘extremes’. It made for a satisfyingly eclectic outing, persevering with Emporio Armani’s raison d’être – to create a really all-encompassing (and right here, all-weather) wardrobe for males. As ever, it ended with a rapturous reception for the designer, who will proceed his celebratory ninetieth birthday yr together with his newest assortment for Giorgio Armani on Monday morning (20 January 2025).
Keep tuned for extra from Milan Style Week Males’s A/W 2025.
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Supply: Wallpaper
