A brand new injection of vitality involves Milan Trend Week Males’s this season because of one thing of a British invasion: Martine Rose, who is basically impressed by underground subcultures in her idiosyncratic menswear collections, will debut on the week, whereas heritage home Dunhill will even be a part of the Milan schedule. Elsewhere London-based label JW Anderson continues to indicate its menswear collections within the metropolis.
Different speaking factors of the weekend will embrace Sabato De Sarno’s sophomore menswear assortment for Gucci, this season shifting to Monday morning (17 June 2024) and happening at Triennale di Milano, the artwork and design gallery first constructed within the Nineteen Thirties (it can proceed De Sarno’s want to foster a hyperlink with the humanities, having proven his Cruise 2025 assortment at London’s Tate Fashionable final month). Prada, in the meantime, will little question take over the timeline with a usually transporting set created alongside OMA/AMO, backdropping what can be one of many season’s defining collections.
The schedule is rounded out by the titans of Milanese model: amongst them Dolce & Gabbana, Zegna, Fendi and Armani, whereas Massimo Giorgetti will have fun 15 years of his Milan-based label MSGM.
One of the best of Milan Trend Week Males’s S/S 2025
Emporio Armani
Emporio Armani S/S 2025 Menswear
(Picture credit score: Images by Estrop/Getty Photographs)
Unbridled horses frolicking within the surf, purple fields of lavender: the projections on the wall of the Teatro Armani showspace set the scene for an Emporio assortment titled ‘Freedom in Nature’ which noticed Mr Armani supplant his man for the season from his typical city sprawl and into the wilds. The temper was one in all journey and abandon: shirting was plunging and worn with voluminous pants and heavy boots – the latter a nod to equestrianism – whereas superfine tailoring recalled safari jackets and kimonos. A deal with the waist ran all through, whether or not within the belted utility jackets or the loops of leather-based which narrowed the waist of the designer’s louche, light-weight tailor-made blazers. It ended with the scent of lavender as a stream of lederhosen-clad males promenaded the area with baskets filled with the springtime-blooming flower. Right here, nature may need been considerably tamed, but it surely nonetheless constituted of a transporting closing milieu, with the fashions surrounding Mr Armani – this season joined by Leo Dell’Orco and Silvana Armani, who take care of the home’s males’s and womenswear collections – for his typical ovation, this 12 months all-the-more celebratory in anticipation of his ninetieth birthday subsequent month.
Fendi
(Picture credit score: Images by Pietro D’Aprano/Getty Photographs)
Fendi left behind its typical showspace in the home’s By way of Solari HQ (renovations and an growth are presently underway), transporting company to a studio lot-like showspace on Milan’s outskirts. It lent the presentation a grander scale, a sense mimicked by the large mirrored blocks which danced across the runway as if operated by distant management, reflecting each viewers and fashions throughout their spinning surfaces. Silvia Venturini Fendi, who heads up the home’s menswear and equipment collections, stated that this season she was impressed by a deep dive into the Fendi archive. The Roman home will flip 100 this 12 months, and the designer created a celebratory crest comprising 4 of the home’s motifs, together with the famed double-F emblem, which right here adorned sweaters and shirts. It lent the gathering a varsity really feel – Venturini Fendi talked earlier than the present about wanting Fendi to really feel like a staff, or membership – the place striped knit rugby sweaters and ties met plaid jackets, college blazers and a playful riff on the soccer shirt. This was a uniform for the Fendi clan – and its wide-reaching worldwide fanbase – to sport with pleasure in its centenary 12 months.
Dolce & Gabbana
Dolce & Gabbana S/S 2025 Menswear
(Picture credit score: Images by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Photographs)
‘Italian Magnificence’ was the title of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s newest menswear assortment, which noticed the duo make a refined gear-shift from the sharp, decreased line of current seasons in direction of one thing softer, impressed by easy Italian summers and actors just like the louche Marcello Mastroianni. Raffia, a definite hallmark of Italian furnishings, was one such motif, used right here to create ethereal summer season jackets and outsized polo shirts, whereas ever-astute tailoring – right here largely double-breasted and worn with pleated trousers which narrowed in direction of the hem – harked again to the Fifties. Elsewhere, the gathering was enlivened with prospers of embroidery and embellishment, just like the sprays of delicate crimson flowers which aodrned crisp white trousers and jackets.
MSGM
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of MSGM)
It was 15 years in the past that Italian designer Massimo Giorgetti based MSGM, a landmark celebrated together with his newest menswear present held in a former industrial storage on Milan’s outskirts on Saturday morning. The crisp, optical assortment, which regarded in direction of the ocean for inspiration, was backdropped by explosions of primary-colour paint in opposition to a collection of Perspex containers which lined the runway. They had been an ode, Giorgetti elaborated, to an early assortment he drafted an artist to daub with paint after fearing it was too protected. It additionally referenced the broad strokes of color and graphic motifs the designer has evoked over the past decade and a half, right here conjured in a vivid array of sample, from riffs on nautical stripes and vibrant daisies to painterly prints of seaside scenes. Certainly, Giorgetti stated it’s in his cliffside residence in Liguria, near Portofino, the place the concepts for the gathering percolated. As for the temper, this was a Mediterranean summer season at its most evocative: ‘the rocks, Mediterranean pines, agaves, the scent of salt and resin,’ he listed, transporting company – in Giorgetti’s usually uplifting trend – from a cloudy Milan to the Italian riviera.
Keep tuned for extra from Milan Trend Week Males’s S/S 2025.
Supply: Wallpaper
