This week marks the arrival of Milan Vogue Week Males’s A/W 2024, promising a blueprint for a way males will gown within the season forward – from the richly sartorial to the boldly experimental. On the primary day, all eyes have been on Sabato De Sarno – the Gucci artistic director confirmed his debut menswear assortment for Gucci, infused with a simple sensuality – and Stone Island, the cult Italian label holding its personal first runway present, regardless of being based in 1982.
Elsewhere, JW Anderson will return to Milan to point out a menswear assortment little doubt punctuated with the surprising – on Instagram he has teased budgie-shaped clutch baggage – whereas Prada will try and comply with its viral slime-drenched runway with one other equally transporting present set. Reveals and collections from Dolce & Gabbana, Emporio Armani and Giorgio Armani, Tod’s, MSGM and Zegna (amongst others), will spherical out the schedule, the latter closing the week on January 15, 2024.
Right here, in our ongoing round-up, we overview the easiest of Milan Vogue Week Males’s A/W 2024 – because it occurs.
One of the best of Milan Vogue Week A/W 2024, because it occurs
Stone Island
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Stone Island)
Stone Island’s first runway present was not a runway present in any respect; somewhat, as attendees streamed into the huge industrial house, fashions have been already current, clamped in rows onto an infinite scaffolding construction. The impact reminded of their distinct promoting campaigns – whereby fashions stand sq. to the digital camera in opposition to a stark white background – although right here, they have been framed by the scaffold’s metallic jousts and glimpsed by means of a veil of dry ice.
The present itself, with a suitably seat-vibrating techno soundtrack (the Italian outerwear model has lengthy been adopted by subcultures, from the Milanese Paninari to British ravers), comprised a light-weight present of kinds, whereby glitching, flashing lights illuminated the rows of fashions, who wore the model’s A/W 2024 assortment. The grand finale was a black curtain which dropped from the ceiling to hide the fashions, projected with Stone Island’s compass emblem – considered one of avenue trend’s most enduring symbols.
If the curtain went down prematurely – as was revealed after the present – it did little to dampen the spectacle, which captured the label’s underground spirit, revealing a gamut of techy, streetwear-infused items (notably, a sequence of jackets and joggers with a liquidy, nearly holographic shine), whereas interesting to a brand new market the model hopes to mine by means of social media impressions from the night. Certainly, earlier within the day, Stone Island revealed an S/S 2024 marketing campaign that includes a well known roster of faces, from actor Jason Statham and choreographer Wayne McGregor, to musician Dave and rising British tennis participant Henry Searle. As I drove by means of Milan to the present, it was already on bus stops and billboards.
Gucci
(Picture credit score: Pictures by Daniele Venturelli/Getty Pictures for Gucci)
Sabato De Sarno continued to hone his imaginative and prescient for Gucci together with his debut menswear assortment for the home, held in a former manufacturing facility house on the northern outskirts of Milan. It was a group infused with the straightforward, insouciant sensuality which outlined his first womenswear assortment proven this previous September. There, he regarded in direction of the multiplicity of the road for a group which straddled pragmatism and glamour; items ran from luxurious riffs on hoodies, tank tops and denim to crystal babydoll attire and outerwear adorned with trails of glimmering tassels.
Right here, languid tailoring, floor-skimming overcoats and Gucci-adorned bomber jackets (in addition to a return of the gray hoodie), met elongated silk ties, thrives of crystal adornment, and new variations of the chunky Marina Chain necklace, which had initially appeared within the womenswear assortment. De Sarno known as it ’a mirroring impact’: from the casting (completely new faces), to the press notes (a declaration that the gathering was an try and seize ’the enjoyment of life’), and the soundtrack (Mark Ronson‘s remix of Ancora Ancora Ancora by Mina), he famous a need to duplicate ‘the feelings that have been felt, this time by means of the attitude of menswear’.
It asserted his cohesive, wide-ranging imaginative and prescient for the home, one which is able to little doubt show significantly seductive to buyers. However the assortment additionally heralds a break from the unrestrained maximalism of his forebear Alessandro Michele, seeing De Sarno – regardless of the generally heavy weight of expectation – confidently strip again the extraneous in direction of a extra discreet magnificence, nonetheless infused with the moments of ’pleasure, ardour and humanity’ that the designer has put forth because the pillars for his renovation of the Italian powerhouse.
Supply: Wallpaper
