Milan Vogue Week S/S 2024 arrives within the Italian trend capital this week, with all eyes on historic home Gucci, which unveils its newest chapter underneath new inventive director Sabato De Sarno, previously of Valentino. Additionally making his debut is Peter Hawkings at Tom Ford – a tenure that begins with a blessing from the eponymous founder himself, who labored with Hawkings on the label earlier than his exit earlier this 12 months.
Elsewhere, an array of Italian homes will present their newest collections – amongst them Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, Giorgio Armani, and extra – with the week culminating within the Digital camera della Moda Sustainable Vogue Awards at La Scala Theatre on 24 September. On the afternoon of the identical day, the Brazil-born, London-based designer Karoline Vitto – who beforehand confirmed with Vogue East – will make her Milan debut, exhibiting with the help of Dolce & Gabbana.
Right here, in our ongoing round-up, one of the best of Milan Vogue Week S/S 2024, because it occurs.
Better of Milan Vogue Week S/S 2024
The innate contradictions of Naples – No. 21 inventive director Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s dwelling metropolis – offered the inspiration for the Milan-based label’s newest assortment. ‘The twin soul of Naples,’ the designer mirrored, ‘aristocratic and well-liked souls, tradition and carnality, false morality and daring pure sensuality.’ As such, there was a way of juxtaposition to the gathering’s appears to be like, which teetered between the sensual and the demure: an undone bodysuit – revealing a vintage-style bra high beneath – was worn with a bridal-style veil. Sheer, paillette-adorned attire and skirts revealed easy Y-front cotton underwear, whereas a translucent organza black mini costume got here with a prim white Peter Pan collar. A few of these oppositions, Dell’Acqua mentioned, got here from the opposition of marriage ceremony celebrations – referenced in white satin swing coats, pointed white pumps and loads of lace – towards the archetype of the Italian widow, right here imagined in a slew of dramatic black appears to be like which closed the present. ‘Drama, playfulness, sensuality and levity,’ Dell’Acqua mentioned of the gathering, which continued to hone the designer’s intriguing, sensual depiction of womanhood, in all its contradictions.
Although Fendi offered the opening present of Milan Vogue Week, British inventive director Kim Jones had his eyes set on one other Italian metropolis: Rome, the place Fendi was based near 100 years in the past, in 1925, and continues to be based mostly. Monolithic variations of the home’s purses – crafted in sculptural white like historical antiquity – populated the area, the impact one thing like strolling by way of the ruins of the Roman Discussion board. Certainly, Jones mentioned the gathering started along with his personal wanders all through town: ‘After I’m in Rome, each day I stroll from the resort to the Colosseum carrying my ear pods. It’s like listening to an imaginary movie with Fendi characters I see alongside the way in which.’ (The present’s soundtrack was fittingly cinematic, with Max Richter’s hovering ‘On the Nature of Daylight’ combined with Dinah Washington’s 1960 ‘This Bitter Earth’). He defines such characters as encapsulating a distinctly Roman sense of favor: ‘an class and ease in not caring’, he described, ‘girls who costume for themselves and their very own lives’. (He famous Silvia Venturini Fendi and her daughter Delfina Delettrez Fendi, creative director of equipment and menswear and creative director of jewelry respectively, as explicit examples).
The gathering was outlined by a sense of lightness and freedom, epitomised in its vivid palette – slashes of crimson, orange and lemon yellow ran all through – and the simple, twisting silhouettes which had been designed to recall the material of Roman statues. Featherweight ribbed knitwear additionally returned this season – creating body-contouring attire with cut-out particulars – whereas different intarsia knits had been adorned with a vibrant graphic of the home’s Double-F emblem. Color-blocking additionally got here in patchwork leather-based outerwear, or the flapping knit panels on attire – right here in numerous contrasting hues – which might be wrapped or tied across the waist. ‘[It’s about] not caring what anybody else thinks,’ mentioned Jones of the gathering, which had a refreshing feeling of spontaneity and irreverence. ‘It’s not in regards to the spectacle of being checked out however the actuality of carrying and the boldness and chicness that comes with it. It’s not about being one thing however being somebody.’
Keep tuned for extra from Milan Vogue Week S/S 2024.