New York Vogue Week A/W 2024: Helmut Lang to Willy Chavarria

New York Vogue Week A/W 2024 heralds the beginning of vogue month, which sees subsequent stopovers in London, Milan and Paris within the coming weeks. It appears to be like set to supply an lively opening act: Peter Do’s sophomore assortment for Helmut Lang started proceedings on Friday morning with a group which mused on the dichotomy between armour and adornment, whereas Willy Chavarria – chosen as a part of the Wallpaper* USA 300 final 12 months – rounded out the opening day with a group that continued his evolution of one of many metropolis’s most intriguing skills.

Right here, Wallpaper* vogue options editor Jack Moss and contributing editor Tilly Macalister-Smith report reside from the reveals, selecting the right of New York Vogue Week A/W 2024 in our ongoing round-up. 

One of the best of New York Vogue Week A/W 2024

Willy Chavarria

Willy Chavarria’s reveals have a form of inexplicable magic which has made him certainly one of New York Vogue Week’s most intriguing skills (the American designer was chosen as a part of the Wallpaper* USA 300 final 12 months). Partially, it’s as a result of he has performed the lengthy sport – his profession comprised design roles at American mega manufacturers like Ralph Lauren earlier than beginning his eponymous label – permitting him to forge Willy Chavarria the model at a second he was assured in his hand and design codes, which largely centre on the multiplicity of the New York avenue (the place he now calls residence) alongside his Mexican-American upbringing in Fresno, California. And, having proven for a number of seasons, it’s paying off: the designer received the 2023 Menswear Designer of the Yr on the CFDA awards and has change into a purple carpet fixture (Billie Eilish is a specific fan), whereas his assortment will quickly be stocked in Barney’s and Saks. It lent proceedings a buzzy, celebratory air, backdropped by rows of church candles and non secular ephemera which have lengthy been a reference level for the designer. Chavarria’s hallmarks continued to be honed – notably a voluminous silhouette, which directly remembers saggy streetwear and the abundance of conventional couture – although freshness was struck in new fabrications (like houndstooth wool used throughout leaner trousers and a extremely fascinating elongated overcoat) and temper of refinement, seeing sweaters slung elegantly across the neck or some sensible tuxedo- fashion tailoring, dramatically pitched on the lapel. JM

Helmut Lang

‘Safety versus projection,’ stated Peter Do of his sophomore assortment for Helmut Lang, which opened New York Vogue Week on Friday afternoon. ‘The way in which we shield ourselves is the best way we outline: armour or adornment?’ The designer continued this message through the printed assortment notes, written in the identical all-caps logotype Lang utilised in his personal campaigns. So there have been shirts and trousers which appeared crafted from bubble wrap – a suggestion of each safety and sensuality, exposing the interior workings of the garment, like pockets and zippers beneath – whereas different knits rose as much as engulf the face and physique towards the weather. A crescent-shaped bag, in the meantime, regarded as if it was made for the mannequin to relaxation her head on for consolation, like an aeroplane pillow, alongside technical vests which recalled the ‘bulletproof’ vests which appeared in Lang’s archival collections. As for the impetus behind the gathering, Do stated it emerged from a unbroken commentary of New York costume codes; the rigours of dwelling within the metropolis require each a necessity for defense and exhibition within the garments individuals put on. ‘In a world of chaos, a system of dressing,’ the designer concluded of the gathering, which although astutely mined hallmarks of the Helmut Lang archive, felt typically lacking the distinctive frisson of sensuality and subversion which outlined the model’s seminal Nineties collections – a steadiness higher struck by Do in his collections for his eponymous model, which he’ll present later this month, on February 27, in Paris. JM