Whereas New York Vogue Week often heralds the beginning of a consecutive month-long stint of ready-to-wear exhibits, this season the town stands alone. With the opposite three vogue capitals have shifted again per week to mirror the later menswear and high fashion exhibits, New York has been steadfast in its early February dates, that means London will happen over per week after New York Vogue Week concludes (often, it’s simply a few days later), with Milan and Paris following with out a break between.
It has led, maybe, to a extra lowered schedule, with loads of notable absences, together with CFDA Award-winning American designer Willy Chavarria, who selected as a substitute to point out throughout Paris Vogue Week Males’s A/W 2025, in addition to Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren, who’re each taking a season away from the runway. With that mentioned, Veronica Leoni’s debut at Calvin Klein – marking the American powerhouse’s return to the runway after almost seven years – made for a buzzy opening act yesterday afternoon (8 February 2025), with the Italian designer expressing a want to convey again the ‘monumental minimalism’ of the model’s defining Nineties oeuvre (certainly, Calvin Klein himself gave his approval from the entrance row). Tory Burch, Michael Kors, Eckhaus Latta, Khaite and Coach will spherical out the schedule, with Thom Browne and Christopher John Rogers each making their returns to the New York runway after a break.
Right here, in our rolling New York Vogue Week A/W 2025 spherical up, Wallpaper* vogue options editor Jack Moss selects the very best exhibits of the week.
New York Vogue Week A/W 2025: the highlights
Calvin Klein Assortment
Calvin Klein Assortment A/W 2025
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Calvin Klein)
It was New York Vogue Week’s most anticipated second: Calvin Klein’s first runway present for the reason that departure of Raf Simons in 2018, now below the helm of Veronica Leoni (the Italian designer labored at The Row, Celine and Moncler earlier than launching her personal label Quira in 2020). For her debut, Leoni talked about stripping it again, returning to the codes of ‘monumental’ minimalism and pulsing sensuality which noticed the American powerhouse rise to fame – and infamy – within the Nineties. ‘Sexiness has very a lot been on my thoughts,’ Leoni mentioned, noting a wish to shift the Calvin Klein wearer from an object of want to the one doing the needing. ‘I needed to redefine femininity and masculinity within the panorama of right now. So I stored in my thoughts this concept of American magnificence; magnificence in probably the most recent and pure manner.’
As such, there was an interaction between a sense of Nineties discount – rigorous tailoring, beneficiant overcoats, saggy blue denim denims, shrunken wool sweaters – and one thing extra tender (jackets grasped closed within the hand, draped silk and jersey clothes, romantic flushes of pink and pink). In the meantime nods to the model’s American roots got here in cowboy boot-inspired footwear, checkered shirts, and performs on the perennial white T-shirt (Leoni mentioned she was fascinated with making a solid of all-American ‘characters’). It made for a assured opening gambit, with lots that felt fascinating – certainly Calvin Klein himself, who watched on from the entrance row, mentioned ‘he was comfortable he had discovered a brand new coat to purchase,’ based on Leoni. ‘I’m actually proud for him to really feel at dwelling once more’.
READ: For her Calvin Klein debut, Veronica Leoni stripped all of it again
Christopher John Rogers
Christopher John Rogers A/W 2025
(Picture credit score: Images by Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho by way of Getty Pictures)
For the previous two years, American designer Christopher John Rogers – who had a fast ascent to prominence after his debut in 2018 – has chosen to point out through the Resort schedule, that means a notable absence at New York Vogue Week. Eager to get again in line with his contemporaries, on Thursday night (6 February 2025) he made a welcome vogue week return with a high-profile present at New York’s Brooklyn Navy Yard. It served as a satisfying reminder of Rogers’ expertise, significantly his astute use of color, which stays a bedrock of the label.
Titled ‘Exhale’, there was a temper of liberation to the gathering, which featured his signature up to date ballgowns and night clothes – right here descending into layers of ruffles, or jutting peplum-like flares – imagined in brightly hued stripes and vivid blocks of color (he was significantly keen on the color inexperienced this season, he mentioned after the present, naming one shade ‘slime’). What’s intelligent about these items is that, regardless of an innate grandeur, they by no means really feel overwrought or overtly dressed up. This spirit of ease prolonged right into a wider on a regular basis providing this season, from rainbow-hued knitwear to slouchy suiting, some adorned with streamer-like plumes of cloth – a design flourish befitting the night’s celebratory air.
Keep tuned for extra from New York Vogue Week A/W 2025.
Supply: Wallpaper
