So begins Paris Vogue Week Males’s A/W 2024 – the closing leg of males’s trend month, which arrives within the French capital this week. Starting with Pharrell Williams’ anticipated sophomore ready-to-wear present for Louis Vuitton – an ode to the American West and its distinct gown codes – the week continues with Givenchy’s first present because the departure of Matthew M Williams (the gathering will probably be designed by the in-house workforce), one other Paris outing for British designer Grace Wales Bonner, and what guarantees to be a very intimate present from Rick Owens (now we have up to now been sworn to secrecy).
Finishing the line-up will probably be a no-doubt intriguing assortment from Jonathan Anderson at Loewe, Kim Jones’ newest Dior Males’s outing, and exhibits from Paul Smith, Comme des Garçons, Dries Van Noten, Valentino and Hermès, alongside a roster of rising names.
Right here, in our ongoing report, is the perfect of Paris Vogue Week Males’s A/W 2024, because it occurs.
One of the best of Paris Vogue Week Males’s A/W 2024
Louis Vuitton
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton)
It was out to Paris’ Bois de Boulogne for Pharrell Williams’ sophomore ready-to-wear present for Louis Vuitton. This follows his debut final summer time in Paris, and a subsequent pre-fall assortment, the place the designer had erected an infinite field within the shadow of Frank Gehry’s sweeping Fondation Louis Vuitton. Contained in the A/W 2024 present venue, huge projections lined the partitions depicting the rocky plains of america, offering a touch of what was to return (the invitation, an LV-branded cowboy hat and an engraved harmonica, supplied one other). Right here was Williams’ ode to that almost all American of archetypes: the cowboy, albeit filtered by the Parisian sensibilities of Louis Vuitton (‘Paris to VA’, in reference to his house state, is a unbroken motif in his tenure up to now).
So, there have been denim chaps and cowboy hats, Western-style shirts with frilled yolks and pearl-and-sequin adornment, and riffs on workwear, from a tailor-made tackle the normal double-kneed carpenter’s pant to a footwear collaboration with Timberland. Requisite cowboy hats accomplished the look, whereas monumental gilded Louis Vuitton trunks have been wheeled alongside the runway on picket frontier carriages.
Earlier than the present, Williams famous that a part of the explanation for this assortment was to offer a extra expansive imaginative and prescient of the cowboy trope (Black and Native American cowboys have been amongst a number of the first cowboys in america, although they’ve been largely excluded from modern depictions of the period). As such, the gathering contained a ’inventive trade’ with artists from the Dakota and Lakota nations, who assisted with Williams’ imaginative and prescient for the gathering, together with a model of the home’s ’Speedy’ bag, which was embroidered with a Dakota Flower motif, or ’Keepalls’ which featured designs reminiscent to these discovered on ‘parfleche’, stretched buffalo hides which have been traditionally adorned by Native American communities. To shut the present, powwow group Native Voices of Resistance – clad in designs conceived by Dee Jay Two Bears of the Standing Rock Sioux Tribe – carried out as a delicate flurry of snow fell from the ceiling, the projected desert on the partitions now dusted white. It made for a present that spoke of Williams’ huge, energetic imaginative and prescient for Louis Vuitton – all that was left to marvel is the place the designer will take his odyssey subsequent.
Keep tuned for extra from Paris Vogue Week Males’s A/W 2024
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