Final cease, Paris. Vogue month rounds out with Paris Vogue Week S/S 2024, that includes a nine-day schedule that spans reveals from the town’s blockbuster homes – Dior, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, Balenciaga and Saint Laurent amongst them – to a sequence of recent arrivals within the trend capital.
These embrace a one-off Marni present from Francesco Risso, seeing the Italian home current its newest assortment in Karl Lagerfeld’s former personal residence; a Paris debut from Peter Do who has beforehand proven in New York (and options in our current Wallpaper* USA 300 information to inventive America), in addition to the primary assortment from former Lacoste inventive director Louise Trotter at Carven.
Elsewhere, anticipate returns to Paris Vogue Week from Maison Margiela and Mugler, in addition to a raft of youthful labels – highlights will little question embrace Duran Lantink, Kiko Kostadinov and Vaquera, every bringing their distinct, energetic fashion to the week.
Lastly, Chloé and Celine alum Phoebe Philo will even reveal her much-anticipated first eponymous assortment digitally, promised in some unspecified time in the future in September. Simply when stays to be seen – her devoted following awaits.
Right here, in our ongoing round-up, is the most effective of Paris Vogue Week S/S 2024, because it occurs.
Better of Paris Vogue Week S/S 2024
Italian artist Elena Bellantoni created the immersive present set for Maria Grazia Chiuri’s newest assortment, a video set up that aimed to disrupt the sexist depictions of womanhood in promoting from the Nineteen Sixties to the 2000s. Titled ‘Not Her’, the work – commissioned by Dior for the present – noticed Bellantoni create 24 new commercials, satirically riffing on the archetypes of those advertisements, from housewife to air hostess, in a sequence of self-portraits. ‘It’s about breaking out of a semantic grid,’ the home described of the piece, with Bellantoni including that it’s a ‘response to the dominant stereotype: it’s not her, she’s now not all that.’ Within the showspace, the works have been displayed on huge LED screens paying homage to the split-flap shows present in airports and practice stations.
It spoke to Grazia Chiuri’s persevering with venture to reimagine Dior by a feminist lens, collaborating largely with feminine artists on her collections and utilizing her reveals to focus on notable ladies from historical past. Final season (see Paris Vogue Week A/W 2023), she regarded to transform female silhouettes of the Nineteen Fifties in a set impressed by Catherine Dior (home founder Christian Dior’s sister, and purported inspiration behind the enduring ‘Miss Dior’ perfume) and French singers Édith Piaf and Juliette Gréco; right here, Chiuri started with an identical want, to weave previous, current and future for her up to date imagining of empowered femininity. ‘A mirrored image on the which means of the current,’ she mused within the assortment notes. ‘A gift through which previous and future should coexist concurrently… [a celebration of] the rebels who’ve asserted their independence within the face of a masculine world and challenged its system.’
This season, Chiuri regarded towards the witch, a cultural archetype that for hundreds of years was used to punish ladies, although right here the designer sought a distinct narrative, recasting the supernatural determine as a ‘custodian of the information of the mother-goddess, who passes on the science of crops and respect the time of nature’. Chiuri had been knowledgeable by the work of anthropologist Michela Zucca, who in a preview movie describes the witch as ‘a pluriform determine, a pacesetter determine… a girl who is aware of about nature greater than others’ in medieval societies. As such, Chiuri famous inspiration from gown of the Center Ages, woven subtly by the largely black and white assortment in extensive, décolletage-bearing necklines, chainmail-inspired knits and wrapped uneven shirting, whereas a extra up to date word was struck in masculine, outsized tailoring, slouchy parka jackets, and mid-length nipped-waist clothes that recalled Chiuri’s now-signature female silhouette (itself drawing inspiration from Christian Dior’s unique high fashion collections).
Elsewhere, nods to nature got here in a model of the home’s floral ‘Mille-fleurs’ sample right here rendered in a darker, X-ray-style print, whereas sometimes intricate embroideries recalled phases of the moon, therapeutic herbs and legendary animals. Midcentury Italian artist Alberto Burri’s Matterist works, in the meantime, impressed worn or destroyed fabrications throughout a sequence of shredded clothes (‘tears, lacerations and combustion’, as the home described). The latter offered a by line to the earlier, A/W 2023 assortment, the place creased and mottled finishes gave a sense of dishevelment Chiuri referred to as ‘directly sturdy and fragile’ – the marks, maybe, of a girl’s life pushing in opposition to the grain.
Having beforehand proven his collections in New York – the place earlier this month he confirmed a debut assortment as inventive director of Helmut Lang – Vietnam-born, New York-based designer Peter Do selected to decamp to Paris this season, making his debut within the French trend capital on Tuesday morning (26 September; the present additionally included eight seems from the busy designer’s collaboration with American retailer Banana Republic). ‘This season, we wish our work to talk for itself,’ stated Do by way of the pre-show assortment notes, presenting a set of chic tailor-made silhouettes with ideas of subversion – like tailor-made trousers slashed alongside the entrance to disclose a stockinged leg beneath, or abbreviated blazers cropped to only beneath the chest. A contrasting languidity got here in easy elongated white shirting or subtly sheer organza vest tops and clothes that have been draped throughout the physique. Collectively, it offered a satisfying opening to the week: proof that Do’s New York-infused cool interprets.
Keep tuned for extra from Paris Vogue Week S/S 2024.