Patricia Urquiola on her rule-breaking capsule assortment for Weekend Max Mara
‘Typically you simply have to alter the foundations,’ says Spanish architect and designer Patricia Urquiola on her vibrant capsule for Weekend Max Mara, designed to mirror the wants and contradictions of on a regular basis life
When Patricia Urquiola – the Spanish multi-hyphenate whose eponymous Milan-based studio spans product, industrial and furnishings design, in addition to structure and artwork route – received to the purpose of displaying her capsule clothes assortment for Weekend Max Mara final February, she determined to interrupt with custom. Till then, the Italian trend label had at all times offered its collections in its personal Milanese showroom; as a substitute, Urquiola selected the headquarters of rug producer CC-Tapis, a label with which she has lengthy collaborated. ‘Typically you simply have to alter the foundations,’ she says.
The collaboration itself marked a primary for Urquiola. Regardless of having cast sturdy connections with the style trade all through her profession (she has labored on initiatives for Missoni, Salvatore Ferragamo and Louis Vuitton, and had an in depth working relationship with the late Virgil Abloh), that is the primary clothes assortment she has created. (Urquiola, although, is insistent it’s not a ‘assortment’ however ‘only a capsule’, ‘then you might be braver and also you don’t take into consideration the accountability,’ she says.)
It arrives as a part of Weekend Max Mara’s Signature line, an ongoing venture whereby numerous worldwide creatives are drafted in every season to create a group that fuses their very own strategy with the label’s heritage. Earlier collaborators have included mannequin Alek Wek, costume designer Gabriella Pescucci, inside designer Anthony Baratta, and artists Richard Saja and Donald Robertson. Urquiola is the tenth participant.
The collaboration is an growth of Urquiola’s complete earlier work with textiles that’s outlined by a broad if generally unconventional use of color. She had at all times been conscious of Weekend Max Mara – ‘I’m a lady, I reside in Milan,’ she says with a smile – and says the attraction of this venture was its allowance for working throughout disciplines with freedom, an unrestrained strategy that she has lengthy championed in her personal work. ‘They described to me this concept that, by Weekend Max Mara, they wished to share increasingly more conversations with people who find themselves not from their world, to get the power of color, of getting one other strategy to the work. They had been actually insistent on that.’
The capsule is titled Habito, a Spanish phrase that Urquiola explains means each ‘behavior’ and ‘to inhabit’. ‘I approached [the capsule] not solely as a designer however as a lady,’ she explains, noting that every merchandise of clothes, which regularly options hybrid parts, is designed to mirror the wants and contradictions of on a regular basis life. ‘I feel the garments that girls put on are an emotional behavior, they’re the instruments we want for dwelling.’ That stated, Urquiola notes that she was ‘not looking out for a lady’s silhouette’, as a substitute designing clothes that felt stripped of historically gendered parts to create a mirrored image of the way in which she attire everyday (usually, she says, this emerges in using outsized, cocooning silhouettes).
The capsule started in Max Mara’s archive, a spot Urquiola was eager to discover initially of the venture. ‘That they had all of the items from the primary collections, from the Eighties, and out of this got here the scale, the outsized shapes, they had been the volumes we had been searching for,’ she says. As such, the gathering includes a sequence of coats – ‘coats are essentially the most consultant [pieces in the collection], essentially the most hybrid ones’ – in variously amplified proportions, combining playfully juxtaposed materials (specifically, heritage wools and ribbed knits with technical nylon). Different parts embody a vividly colored gilet, paying homage to her vibrant CC-Tapis rugs that shaped the backdrop of the presentation, big clasp-top clutch purses (a model of the home’s ‘Pasticcino’ bag), and shirting with expansive plissé sleeves.
Urquiola believes that now could be the time for such experimentation, ‘to do capsules, to place your self in new conditions, to offer new voices to corporations,’ she says, noting this strategy was partially impressed by watching Abloh work so broadly throughout design disciplines. ‘This venture with Weekend Max Mara was about mixing our concepts, a playful second the place you work together with totally different worlds, and different factors of view. I got here out of my consolation zone,’ she says. ‘Which is at all times an excellent factor.’ §