The French designer Marine Serre, one of many visitor designers of this season’s Florence menswear truthful, Pitti Uomo 106, chosen the Fifteenth-century Villa di Maiano – positioned within the rolling hills simply outdoors of town – to current her S/S 2025 assortment, which featured her most complete menswear providing but. Introduced within the gilded gentle of the early night, it was straightforward to see why designers like Serre have lengthy chosen to indicate at Pitti Uomo, regardless of the relative upheaval of transporting a set throughout borders. Right here was a setting nearly as cinematic because it will get, seeing fashions weave their method via the Edenic gardens in direction of the hedge mazes under, all of the whereas the spires and domes of Florence offering a distant backdrop within the fading night gentle. Afterwards, company mingled on the lawns for aperitivo, with a couple of noting their want to uproot themselves to the Tuscan countryside.
Pitti Uomo 106: the highlights
Marine Serre mentioned she was impressed by the glamour of Italian cinema for the S/S 2025 assortment, which featured each mens- and womenswear
(Picture credit score: Images by Vanni Bassetti)
Serre mentioned that the gathering was impressed by the glamour of Italian cinema, most astutely captured within the womenswear assortment, a dramatic stream of confection-like robes which got here full with the Italian tropes of headscarves, lace and veils. They marked a transfer onwards from the slick, crescent-moon second-skin items for which Serre has develop into identified, and can probably please her movie star fanbase. Different robes, constructed from collaged climbing and tennis luggage, recalled her earlier work with pieced-together, upcycled clothes. It was clear that the setting had proved creatively inspirational for Serre, who appeared to seek out new freedoms away from Paris. A ultimate white costume, emblazoned with the flags of Congo, Palestine, and Sudan, recalled her early slogan ‘A Radical Name for Love’. ‘The gathering symbolises a name for peace,’ she mentioned, noting that her fashions hailed from 25 completely different nations world wide.
Paul Smith confirmed his S/S 2025 assortment, impressed by the uniforms of British artists, at an intimate presentation at Villa Favard
(Picture credit score: Images by Astra Marina Cabras, courtesy of Pitti Uomo)
At one other villa earlier within the week – the Nineteenth-century Villa Favard, created by Giuseppe Poggi – Paul Smith, the season’s different visitor designer, revelled not within the grand or cinematic, however as a substitute within the intimacy that Pitti Uomo affords (not like Milan and Paris, a scant schedule of exhibits means extra time for absorbing a designer’s assortment). In one of many villa’s gilded salons, company sat on stools as Smith talked via his newest assortment’s numerous appears. ‘I feel the world’s gone a bit mad with these exhibits all over the place world wide,’ he mentioned, presiding over a room of gathered company and press. ’I simply suppose it’s so missing in persona. So I believed, why don’t I simply discuss to everybody and present the gathering?’ It was an astute method of displaying the Paul Smith S/S 2025 providing, impressed by Soho’s Italian espresso bars and their creative patrons, inserting the ever-charismatic Smith entrance and centre.
To have fun ten years of her Florence retailer, Margaret Howell introduced a photographic exhibition celebrating her made-in-Italy items
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Margaret Howell)
Earlier that night, fellow British designer Margaret Howell hosted an equally intimate drinks reception at her Florence retailer, marking ten years of the distinctive location, which is simply steps from the River Arno. An accompanying photographic exhibition noticed basic Margaret Howell items blown up on posters across the retailer, every chosen for its hyperlinks to Italian manufacturing, which Howell mentioned she needed to focus on (Italy accounts for practically half of the uncooked supplies the model makes use of, and 32 per cent of clothes and niknaks manufacturing). ‘I’ve all the time chosen to work with specialist producers and weavers [and] Italy has an innate understanding of make and high quality that’s distinctive to our trade,’ she mentioned. ‘Opening a manufacturing workplace and store in Florence has enabled us to construct stronger relationships and to showcase their craft.’ In a present of assist between two stalwarts of British vogue, Howell joined Smith’s apertivo hour on the specifically constructed ‘Bar Paul’ at Villa Favard, only a quick stroll away.
On the truthful, Herno introduced a complete menswear assortment designed to span seasons
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Herno)
On the historic Fortezza da Basso, the place the primary menswear truthful takes place every season, Herno supplied a showcase of its personal distinct model of Italian craft (based in Piedmont, northern Italy, it started with the development of coated cotton raincoats and has been an knowledgeable in cloth building since). Reworking its longstanding pavilion on the truthful right into a stripped-back area divided by huge video screens, the model’s showcase of its assortment illustrated the most recent step in its evolution from outerwear knowledgeable to a complete vogue label that caters to the assorted wants of a person’s wardrobe. Which is why, regardless of it being a S/S 2025 assortment, the items got here in a wide range of weights – from high-summer seersucker units, tennis put on and swimming shorts (a brand new addition to the model’s roster) to hotter down items and an array of knitwear – which Herno mentioned was purposely ‘transseasonal’, an astute pitch for the worldwide, country-hopping client.
Making its debut on the truthful, Missoni’s S/S 2025 menswear assortment featured items made on artisanal Italian looms
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Missoni)
An equally complete providing got here from Missoni, which made its debut this season on the menswear truthful, having beforehand proven on the model’s Brera HQ in Milan in the course of the metropolis’s vogue week. Introduced within the cool, salon-like interiors of the Construzione Lorenesei – a extra sedate enclave than the busy, fashionable fundamental pavilion – it was described as a set which ‘strikes throughout events and conditions’. An array of slouchy knit cardigans, some adorned with the basic zig-zag Missoni motif, had been on the assortment’s centre, equally possible worn with the gathering’s vibrant swim shorts and sandals on a summer season’s night or as an enveloping wintertime layer. An illustration of craft got here within the cobalt-blue crystal coatings on clothes, recalling the shimmer of ocean waters, whereas intricate knit jackets – some panelled with slender strains of leather-based – had been constructed on conventional artisanal looms.
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Brunello Cucinelli)
At Brunello Cucinelli, there was a satisfying injection of color this season, notably in vibrant shades of peach which added new curiosity to the designer’s basic silhouettes. This sense of lightness ran via the gathering, which featured roomy, technical jackets (Cucinelli mentioned the silhouette was impressed by Eighties cuts), ethereal knit polos and pleated white pants, alongside capsule collections impressed by tennis and golf. Tailoring, in the meantime, was minimize with a narrower line, whereas equipment spanned Western-inspired belts, leather-trimmed espadrilles and woven-knit ties. The gathering was celebrated with a dinner at Serre Torrigiani on Pitti Uomo’s opening night time, seeing company – together with the actor Jeff Goldblum and his spouse Emilie Livingston – spill out onto the restaurant’s terraced Italian gardens, first constructed within the sixteenth century and right here lined with candlelit eating tables. Deemed Florence’s secret ‘oasis’, it was one more of the uniquely cinematic settings that proceed to present Pitti Uomo its distinct attract.
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