The Prada A/W 2025 assortment was, as Wallpaper* style options editor Jack Moss writes in his report, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ ‘pitch for liberation’. Titled Uncooked Glamour, it subverted typical codes of ‘female magnificence’, not simply via clothes but in addition through hair and make-up, courtesy of Guido Palau and Lynsey Alexander.
‘A sense of dishevelment ran all through – not least the hair, which had been teased and ruffled, as if on the finish of a protracted night (or, certainly, rolling off the bed),’ Moss continues of the present, which came about yesterday (27 February) throughout Milan Vogue Week.
Prada A/W 2025 magnificence by Guido Palau and Lynsey Alexander
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There have been distinct echoes of the ‘frazzled’ ponytails Palau created for Miu Miu A/W 2023: a group that interrogated ‘methods of wanting’ and the push and pull of ‘attraction and repulsion’. Right here, he used static electrical energy to raise unfastened strands on the crown into delicate tufts, by rubbing hair with balloons.
Miu Miu is usually considered Prada’s ‘little sister’. And definitely, the Prada A/W 2025 girl is a grown up model of her youthful self, taking a decidedly darker highway via life. On the likes of Julia Nobis, who opened the runway, and two new faces Xaria Carter and Maelie Harambat forged within the present by Ashley Brokaw, Palau backcombed hair right into a matted tangle, as if a as soon as excellent blow out had been unwashed and slept on for a number of days and nights.
Julia Nobis at Prada A/W 2025
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Prada)
Equally, Lyndsey Alexander made ‘unkempt’ eyebrows the central focus of A/W 2025’s make-up, lending them an exaggerated fuzz and ultra-dense look with Prada Magnificence’s new Pradascope mascara and soon-to-be-released eye pencils.
In distinction, complexions had a naked look, while lips got only a contact of balm. ‘There’s a juxtaposition of ugly and delightful, coming collectively to create one thing fairly extraordinary,’ Alexander instructed Wallpaper* in a 2023 interview, a press release that rings true in her work on yesterday’s present.
Right here, co-creative administrators Mrs Prada and Raf Simons – alongside Palau and Alexander – have instructed the story of a lady who’s disinterested within the so-called ‘clear woman aesthetic’, multi-step routines and infinite ‘bathe hacks’ peddled on Instagram and TikTok.
It is a continuation of the agenda laid out on the latest Prada womenswear and menswear seasons, designed as ripostes to the prescriptive, pervasive – and infrequently misleading – algorithmic picture. (As Wallpaper’s Jack Moss reported, the home’s S/S 2025 womenswear present was a rejection of the ‘by-product and anticipated’, with Mrs Prada stating backstage: ‘We’re pushed by algorithms. We like issues as a result of folks inform us to love them.’)
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Prada)
Prada tapped Ottessa Moshfegh to write down a sequence of brief tales to accompany the S/S 2025 Ten Protagonists marketing campaign, during which Carey Mulligan performs a roster of various personas, donning numerous wigs by Guido Palau.
Moshfegh is famend for her lurid and ‘unsavoury’ feminine narrators, their magnificence, grooming and hygiene habits – or generally lack thereof – converse to an unwillingness to evolve to the societal expectations dictated by America throughout numerous factors in historical past.
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Prada)
‘What does femininity imply as we speak? How can or not it’s outlined?’ learn the Prada A/W 2025 present notes.
Questions round magnificence requirements for ladies, throughout each demographic and tradition, are ever-evolving and infinite. However throughout a time when technological development results in political regression, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons appear to be saying that these questions are much more pressing to ask.
prada.com
Supply: Wallpaper
