Prada’s monumental scaffolding present set was a ‘exploration of contrasts’

A Prada present is outlined by transformation: the evolution of an concept, the altering of a silhouette, a well-recognized garment made unfamiliar, the facility to shift the attention. This has lengthy been Miuccia Prada’s MO, one which has continued alongside co-creative director Raf Simons who started on the Italian home in 2020.

The identical goes for the present area itself, the hangar-like Deposito in Fondazione Prada’s Torre constructing, the place the home has held exhibits since its opening in 2018. Every season, Miuccia Prada and Simons work alongside AMO on the present units, that are outlined by comparable acts of transformation: lately the Deposito has change into a surreal company workplace hovering over a lush forest ground encased in perspex, a sci-fi area station full with dripping goo, and an infinite paper home that made attendees Lilliputian in scale.

‘An exploration of distinction’: Prada’s A/W 2025 menswear present set

Yesterday afternoon (19 January 2025), for the home’s A/W 2025 menswear present, AMO utilised the huge peak of the Deposito to erect a scaffolding construction on which friends have been unfold over two flooring (the clue got here within the assortment’s invitation, a slice of steel scaffolding engraved with the Prada brand and the season). The commercial really feel – paying homage to coming into a nightclub or rave – was contrasted with the carpet, which was adorned with an artwork deco sample of swirling traces and flowers, stretching throughout the runway and alongside the staircases. It was taken from an authentic print by Catherine Martin, the Australian designer who labored alongside Miuccia Prada on the costumes for Baz Luhrmann’s 2013 The Nice Gatsby.

‘An exploration of distinction,’ described Prada of the set. ‘A sequence of ranges divide the area, contradicting the size of the monumental corridor, the shifting lighting and ambiance echoing filmic scenes. Evoking intimacies – the closeness of a membership – these change into consultant of locations for probably the most direct of human instincts, our want to come back collectively.’

Like the home’s earlier womenswear present, the designers talked in regards to the concept of eclecticism and instinct, which Simons described as ‘unconscious dialogue between concepts, coming from all over the place, after which permitting them to sit down collectively in a means that appears unusual and new’. Titled ‘Unbroken Intuitions’, the gathering’s clothes moved between a suggestion of softness and romance – floral motifs on T-shirts and hoods, washed-out plaid, shrunken knits – and one thing extra ‘primitive’ in raw-cut slices of fake fur and patch-worked leather-based. Nods to Americana got here in sweaters slashed throughout the chest, paying homage to the yoke of a western shirt, and cowboy boots, tweaked upwards on the toe.