The Wallpaper* lens on the definitive trend moments of 2022 – from the ever present Miu Miu mini skirt to Pieter Mulier’s sensual imaginative and prescient for Alaïa, and Matthieu Blazy’s debut assortment at Bottega Veneta, we chart the 12 months in type via our pages.
1. Prada explores its archetypes (high)
Photographed by Eva Wang for Wallpaper* September 2022
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons offered an ‘An Ideology of Prada’ for his or her A/W 2022 assortment, which elevated archetypal clothes – amongst them the white vest, right here reimagined with a Prada emblem plaque on the chest – to make ‘event of the on a regular basis, affording significance to every second’. The present itself, held in February, was one in all Milan Vogue Week A/W 2022’s most talked-about moments, that includes appearances from Prada ladies previous and current – from Kaia Gerber and Hunter Schafer to Erin O’Connor and Liya Kedebe.
2. The ever-present Miu Miu mini
Photographed by Vincent Le Chapelain in Wallpaper* February 2022
Few clothes proved so ubiquitous as Miu Miu’s sliced-away mini skirt, which was arguably the defining trend object of 2022. Arriving in shops initially of the 12 months, it was a part of a S/S 2022 assortment which noticed Miuccia Prada riff on the workplace uniform (with a twist).
3. ‘Fashionable Magnificence’: Pieter Mulier at Alaïa
Photographed by Spela Kasal for Wallpaper* September 2022
Pieter Mulier’s sensual imaginative and prescient for Alaïa – which he defines as a pursuit for ‘fashionable magnificence’ – continued in 2022 along with his acclaimed second assortment, proven in January. Items from the gathering featured within the September 2022 Model Problem photographed in Paris, alongside a dialog with Mulier. ‘I need to create garments that carry this concept of a contemporary magnificence, all the time in motion,’ he stated.
4. Matthieu Blazy’s debut Bottega Veneta assortment
Photographed by Thomas Rousset for Wallpaper* November 2022
Matthieu Blazy’s acclaimed first assortment at Bottega Veneta noticed the designer zero in on the Italian home’s historic synonymy with craft and leatherwork (one memorable piece was a pair of ‘denims’ which seemed to be created from denim however had been really trompe l’oeil leather-based). ‘Bottega Veneta is in essence pragmatic as a result of it’s a leather-based items firm,’ he stated on the time. ‘It’s type over trend in its timelessness. That’s a part of its quiet energy.’
5. New-gen menswear
Photographed by Leonardo Scotti for Wallpaper* September 2022
An array of rising menswear designers and nascent labels made their mark in 2022, amongst them Aaron Esh, Lu’u Dan, Marie Lueder, Edward Cuming, Georges Wendell and Tokyo James, whose A/W 2022 collections had been captured by Leonardo Scotti for the September 2022 Model Problem of Wallpaper. Every was chosen for his or her distinct aesthetic and uncompromising method. ‘You begin to realise that it’s not the clicks, or likes, or followers, or the celebrities or musicians who put on it which make one thing nice,’ stated Esh. ‘It’s concerning the trend.’
6. Jonathan Anderson’s transfer to surrealism
Photographed by Matthieu Lavanchy in Wallpaper* September 2022
Loewe artistic director Jonathan Anderson offered a few of the 12 months’s most memorable trend objects; amongst them, a sequence of surreal Perspex equipment evocative of inflated balloons, from heeled footwear to bra tops. ‘A balloon creates rigidity, it would pop,’ Anderson stated of the playful motif.
7. Raf Simons shutters his namesake label
Photographed by Benjamin Pexton for Wallpaper* November 2022
In November, Belgian designer Raf Simons introduced that he can be shuttering his eponymous Belgium-based label after 27 years in enterprise. In our November 2022 subject, we photographed a cap-cum-cape impressed by a Sixteenth-century portray by Flemish artist Pieter Bruegel the Elder (a collaboration with legendary milliner Stephen Jones) from an A/W 2022 assortment which might show to be his second-last. His closing assortment – S/S 2023 – was proven in October at London’s Printworks night time membership, coinciding with Frieze Week within the metropolis (and amongst our trend moments of Frieze Week 2022).
8. Ester Manas redefines the physique
Photographed by Pauline Caranton for Wallpaper* August 2022
By means of her eponymous label, Ester Manas – alongside companion and co-designer Balthazar Delepierre – was a part of a raft of recent designers redefining catwalk-model norms this 12 months, the pair’s Paris Vogue Week reveals a celebration of the multiplicity of ladies’s our bodies. We visited the designers’ Belgian studio in our August 2022 subject, photographing Manas and Delepierre becoming a brand new assortment.
9. Kim Jones reimagines the Bar Jacket to have a good time 75 years
Photographed by George Harvey for Wallpaper* September 2022
Kim Jones’ menswear collections for Dior have lengthy drawn inspiration from the home’s roots as a couture maison, typically that includes extraordinary feats of embellishment and craft made potential by the historic atelier. Such was the case along with his A/W 2022 assortment, which featured a sequence of tailor-made blazers impressed by Christian Dior’s seminal nipped-waist Bar Jacket that turned 75 this 12 months. Right here, one in all these jackets is photographed by George Harvey as a part of our A/W 2022 menswear collections story within the September 2022 subject of Wallpaper*.
10. Alessandro Michele says goodbye to Gucci
Photographed by Matthieu Lavanchy for Wallpaper* April 2022
November noticed the exit of Alessandro Michele from Gucci, a home the Italian designer redefined over his seven-year tenure with eclectic, transporting collections that ushered in a renaissance of maximalist trend. In our April 2022 subject, a sometimes outré coat from Michele featured in a sequence of pictures by image-maker Matthieu Lavanchy, photographed on a chair by legendary industrial designer Ron Arad.