The ultimate stretch of menswear season concludes in Paris this week, because the heavyweight French homes current their S/S 2026 collections throughout a jam-packed six days. Saint Laurent and Louis Vuitton opened proceedings yesterday with equally fantastical spectacles set inside two of Paris’ best-loved artwork establishments. On the Bourse de Commerce, Anthony Vaccarello introduced a set that sought a languid ease via an imagined journey between Paris and Fireplace Island, backdropped by Céleste Boursier-Mougenot’s floating pool of porcelain bowls. Because the solar set within the night, a star-studded crowd (together with Jay-Z and Beyoncé) gathered on the courtyard of the Centre Pompidou to see Pharrell Williams’ staging of a supersized recreation of snakes and ladders, the place he floor down into his imaginative and prescient of the trendy dandy via a set that skewed Indian craftsmanship with the home’s damier-patterned codes.
However the week is simply getting began – and there’s nonetheless a lot to return. In tandem together with his Palais Royal runway, Rick Owens opens ‘Temple of Love’, a retrospective that charts the incubation of his subversive design philosophy from early days in LA to Paris, the place he has been based mostly since 2003. Alongside the Comme des Garçons roster, renegade New York favorite Willy Chavarria will current his second Paris assortment later within the week, whereas London’s personal Wales Bonner is making an anticipated return to the schedule after a hiatus. It goes with out saying that Jonathan Anderson’s debut at Dior on Friday would be the most-anticipated occasion of the week. An assemblage of surreal, characteristically Andersonian clues has solely fuelled hypothesis – what might presumably hyperlink a silver frog and footballer Kylian Mbappé? – and all eyes will probably be set on the home because the Irish designer stamps down a brand new period for Dior.
Right here, in an ongoing round-up, we choose one of the best reveals of Paris Vogue Week Males’s, as they occur.
The perfect of Paris Vogue Week Males’s S/S 2026
Louis Vuitton
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton)
Pharrell Williams offers in spectacle. On Tuesday night, simply because the solar set over Paris, he laid out a 2,700 sq m snakes and ladders board in entrance of the Pompidou Centre to stage his newest menswear assortment for Louis Vuitton. There was a floor-shaking soundtrack, carried out stay by Virginia-based Voices of Fireplace and l’Ochestre du Pont Neuf, and a roll name of celebrities – together with Beyoncé and Jay-Z – which prompted frenzied screams from the crowds that gathered across the piazza’s edges. Even the pigeons dramatically took flight on the present’s begin.
This season, India was a unfastened affect for the gathering, which continued to posit Williams’ tackle the worldwide dandy – a modern however eclectic imaginative and prescient of a world traveller, which largely sees the designer riff on menswear archetypes, from the swimsuit to the working uniform. He labored with Studio Mumbai on the present’s set, and nods to the nation – which Williams mentioned has ‘at all times been an inspiration’ – got here in paduka-style footwear, woven and tasselled trims, cricket jumpers, and the recreation of a Louis Vuitton baggage set (initially created by Marc Jacobs) for Wes Anderson’s India-set 2007 film, The Darjeeling Restricted. ‘We’re a home of journey,’ mentioned Williams, who had undertaken analysis journeys to Mumbai, Jaipur and Delhi together with his staff previous to creating the gathering.
By way of silhouette, there was a satisfying languidity to the season’s tailoring – which made up nearly all of the gathering – with fold-front or gently flared trousers capturing a way of ease which has often felt lacking in his previous collections. He was additionally robust when enjoying with workwear – uniform striped shirting, polo shirts and cargo pants all had real-world enchantment – whereas moments of superlative craft, like a hoodie constructed from tiny hand-sewn panels of mink, was a reminder of the facility of the Louis Vuitton atelier, one which Williams is now harnessing to spectacular impact. JM
Auralee
(Picture credit score: Courest of Auralee)
Sandwiched between the 2 high-budget headliners of the day – Saint Laurent and Louis Vuitton – Auralee’s easy S/S 2026 show felt like a breath of cool air. Staged within the serene courtyard of the Nationwide Archives Museum within the Marais, Japanese designer Ryota Iwai’s present targeted much less on an idea than on a specific time of 12 months – one when flashes of heat shock us within the day, whereas the nights can nonetheless be bristlingly chilly. Noting how unpredictable climate could make outfits really feel ‘mismatched’ and ‘undone’ – ‘loosening us up a little bit’ – the gathering that adopted was a masterclass in Iwai’s quiet language of stylish.
In observe, this sense of seasonal discombobulation performed out in classically tailor-made, hand-sewn outerwear in autumnal tones, thrown over ethereal shirting, organza silk attire, and cropped shorts in sunny hues – a nod to swimwear and beachside ease. The model’s much-loved knitwear appeared in Japanese sundown reds and Yves Klein blues, crafted from luxurious cashmeres and wools. Equipment, in the meantime, exuded the laid-back feeling of holidays – bucket hats, drawstring bonsacs, and modern flip-flops.
Whereas this assortment was impressed by a specific time of 12 months, Iwai based Auralee in 2015 with a extra exact time in thoughts – dressing within the tender, clarifying gentle of morning (Auralee interprets as ‘the land that lights up’). A celebration of the painstaking craft and quiet magnificence that has earned the model its cult following over these years, yesterday in Paris felt like a luminous, assured toast to a recent decade forward. OB
Saint Laurent
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Saint Laurent)
Staged within the vivid gentle of the afternoon – a rarity for a Saint Laurent present – Anthony Vaccarello’s S/S 2026 menswear present passed off within the rotunda of Bourse de Commerce – Pinault assortment, round an set up by Céleste Boursier-Mougenot at present on present on the Paris gallery. Comprising an unlimited spherical pool on which floated a whole bunch of porcelain bowls, it set the stage for a set of ‘ease’ and ‘escapism’ that centred on an imagined journey from Paris to Fireplace Island – ‘the place escape turns into magnificence, and want turns into a language’.
Clothes channelled the setting’s daydream-like temper with abbreviated shorts, pyjama units and vibrant layers of silk and nylon assembly wide-shoulder shirts, blazers and ties for a continuance of Vaccarello’s riff on the Nineteen Eighties working uniform (although right here, it was rendered with new lightness). Partly, the designer mentioned that the gathering was an homage to a technology of queer artists – contemporaries of Yves Saint Laurent – who escaped New York Metropolis within the Seventies and located sexual liberation and kinship amongst Fireplace Island’s dunes (the locale, off the coast of Lengthy Island, New York, has been identified for its queer neighborhood for the reason that Nineteen Twenties).
‘This assortment pays tribute to a misplaced technology, to the artists – [Larry] Stanton, [Patrick] Angus, [Darrel] Ellis – who gave a face to silent wishes,’ mentioned Vaccarello, with gestures of concealment and publicity operating via the gathering. ‘[It is] impressed by a time when want was model, when magnificence served as a protect towards vacancy. The gathering explores this delicate sensuality, that fragile second when one attire as a lot to disclose oneself as to hide.’ JM
Keep tuned for stay protection of Paris Vogue Week Males’s right here.
Supply: Wallpaper
