The transient however vibrant historical past of cult New York label Sies Marjan

The transient however vibrant historical past of cult New York label Sies Marjan

To completely perceive the magic of the now-defunct New York vogue label Sies Marjan is to dissect its artistic director Sander Lak’s deep appreciation of color. Not like typical New Yorkers, who favour sporting black and different darker shades, Sies Marjan’s philosophy of embracing wild and fantastic shades to uplift, shock and encourage was extremely influential, regardless of its transient period. Two years for the reason that label was shuttered, in June 2020, because of the world pandemic, Lak has chronicled the intense, however short-lived journey of Sies Marjan in a guide, The Colours of Sies Marjan, revealed by Rizzoli. That includes a foreword by the artist Elizabeth Peyton, and conversations with architect Rem Koolhaas (who collaborated with Lak on what can be Sies Marjan’s last assortment), graphic designer Irma Increase, actress Isabella Rosselini and writer Donna Tartt, the photo-filled tome is organised completely by color, as seen via Lak’s eyes.

The Colours of Sies Marjan, revealed by Rizzoli

From The Colours of Sies Marjan. Picture: courtesy of Rizzoli

Based in 2016, Sies Marjan shortly attained cult standing for its signature use of jewel-toned hues, beautiful development and easy method to dressing. In his assertion for the guide, Lak recounts, ‘The collections at Sies Marjan have been fully pushed by color. Earlier than utilizing any references, inspiration or classic clothes, we might take a look at tons of of colors, discovering what does and doesn’t work collectively. From the design staff to the merchandisers and entrepreneurs, we might all take a look at the fastidiously chosen colors and provides our enter. Not simply what felt proper, but additionally what the colors reminded us of, what we’d by no means put on and why.’

Fairly than take into consideration color from a chronological or seasonal standpoint, Lak’s advanced and analytical method for the supply materials, whether or not its ‘Cookie Monster blue’, ‘Baskin Robbins pink’, ‘Lakers purple’ and ‘Put up-it yellow’, attracts from each a color’s cultural and Pantone specificity to amplify every selection’s resonance. ‘It was this search of affiliation and disruption that instructed us which colors to make use of on which materials,’ he writes. ‘Though scary and intensely arduous to plan, it was thrilling and dynamic. We by no means knew how the gathering would reveal itself. But it surely all the time discovered a approach.’

From The Colours of Sies Marjan. Picture: courtesy of Rizzoli

Talking forward of the guide’s launch, Lak says, ‘The intention of numerous books about vogue homes is often inside a advertising and marketing or PR-filled context, like an anniversary or retailer opening, and there’s nothing incorrect with that, however this was one thing very completely different as a result of [the label] doesn’t exist anymore, and it was actually in my very own arms for everybody to see, but additionally for myself to present this chapter a closure. It grew to become so private’. 

For the reason that Sies Marjan’s demise, Lak has been extremely selective about embarking on new tasks, certainly one of which is an evocative textile assortment for Maharam in 2021 (see our article on the Sander Lak and Maharam collaboration). ‘We closed the corporate, I took time without work and after a number of months, I began feeling able to see what else was on the market,’ he remembers. ‘Nothing felt proper, not as a result of these issues weren’t proper, however I realised that the issue was nonetheless with me and I hadn’t put a closure on Sies Marjan or given it an ending it deserved. We did it in addition to we may however it occurred fairly abruptly, so I actually felt there was unfinished enterprise. 

From The Colours of Sies Marjan. Picture: courtesy of Rizzoli

‘I got here up with the concept for a guide, which was one thing I all the time needed to do basically. I reached out to Rizzoli with the idea of doing it by color and having or not it’s the final phrase on this model that existed for a brief time period. Once I had it in my arms for the primary time final week, it was fairly an intense second as a result of that’s once I felt I may actually let it go. I’ve completed every part I may to complete this story and now I’m prepared for no matter is subsequent.’ 

Crammed with images from behind the scenes, editorial spreads and different documentary photographs, The Colours of Sies Marjan captures the arduous work, creativity and artistry that goes into constructing a label, seen from Lak’s distinctive perspective. Vivid, daring and delightful, it exquisitely captures the uncooked power that fuelled the label throughout its abbreviated lifetime. §

The guide cowl. Picture: courtesy of Rizzoli