Tobi Masa lands at The Chancery Rosewood

One may be forgiven for pondering that headline-grabbing Carbone is the one big-ticket American import on the new Chancery Rosewood, the Eero Saarinen-designed former US Embassy turned all-suite lodge. However whereas Mario Carbone’s razzle-dazzle Italian is hoovering up the column inches, upstairs is a reasonably extra serene eating room from one other Manhattan-based chef: Masayoshi ‘Masa’ Takayama, who holds three Michelin stars for his Columbus Circle sushi restaurant, Masa (amongst Wallpaper’s choose of traditional New York eating places).

Wallpaper* dines at Tobi Masa, London

The temper: craftsmanship and contrasts

Masa was the restaurant that satisfied New Yorkers that perching on a stool at a sushi counter with a pair of chopsticks may very well be each bit as refined as sitting at a desk dressed with starched napery and polished cutlery. There’s a counter at this London outpost too, but in addition a eating room that includes inward-facing banquettes for friends whose thought of glowing dialog isn’t asking the sushi chef the place they supply their tuna.

‘Tobi Masa’s design inspiration was extracted from the envelope of Eero Saarinen’s former American Embassy constructing,’ says Alex Reed, design director of AvroKO London, the worldwide studio behind the restaurant’s look. ‘The house embraces distinction – the formal rigour of Saarinen’s structure softened by means of refined supplies impressed by Asian craftsmanship. Each element creates an environment of formality and intimacy that enhances the artistry of the culinary providing.’

The meals: pure flavours, gilded edges

The Manhattan Masa was credited with reinventing New York’s sushi scene when it opened in 2004, mixing Japanese approach with Western luxurious. Lately, you possibly can’t transfer in Mayfair for omakase and kaiseki, however there’s nonetheless a thrill available from the chef’s mixture of Japan-flown fish and salad leaves gilded with extravagant adornments equivalent to truffle and foie gras. But for all of the opulence, every bite-sized delight mainlines a startling purity of flavour.

There’s extra to the place than toro-caviar maki rolls and A5 Wagyu nigiri, although: Peking duck tacos and Masa Surimi – ‘pasta’ comprised of seafood – are NYC signatures which have crossed the pond, whereas the only sushi proves that Masa is a grasp of minimalism and an knowledgeable in extracting the important character from exceptional-quality fish.

‘Tobi’, by the way in which, is the Japanese phrase for ‘flight’; take to the air earlier than dinner with a drink within the rooftop Eagle Bar, within the shadow of the outdated embassy’s gigantic gilded aluminium eagle.