Tollington’s is the brand new Spanish-inspired fish bar making a splash in north London

Fish bar Tollington’s could be situated within the coronary heart of London’s Finsbury Park, but it surely wouldn’t really feel misplaced in sunny Barcelona. That’s because of its easy seafood menu and the charming Spanish-inspired interiors that make this shiny new opening appear like it’s been round for many years. And, in some methods, it has.

Tollington’s, London

Tollington’s has, in spite of everything, been a staple of N4 for a few years, albeit in a unique guise. As soon as a neighbourhood fish and chip store, it’s now the most recent enterprise from Ed McIlroy of 4 Legs – the workforce behind beloved native pub The Plimpsoll. As along with his pub, McIlroy sought to guard and polish a lot of Tollington’s authentic options. ‘It’s vital to retain lovely outdated elements of London,’ he says. ‘I wished the renovation to be as gentle as doable.’ The unique emerald inexperienced frontage, as an example, stays intact. It encompasses a gold serif lettering spelling out the restaurant’s identify – a tribute to its predecessor.

Inside, the interiors have been sensitively refurbished to seize the spirit of Spanish eateries. Take the tiled flooring: ‘It was lined in 20 years of chip grease. However, after scrubbing it with bicarb and vinegar, I discovered that the tiles are lovely and remind me of these in taverns in Madrid.’ With mother and father primarily based in Spain, a vacation spot he’s been visiting since childhood, McIlroy has lengthy had an affinity with the nation. ‘I really like the no-nonsense informality of eating there – the best way folks eat standing up, for instance. That’s what I wish to encourage right here.’

Because of this, Tollington’s has been cleverly divided into two halves. On the entrance, there’s an extended slim bar – ‘which jogs my memory of El Xampanyet in Barcelona’, says McIlroy – the place diners are invited to get pleasure from a fast chunk and, say, a glass of home wine whereas utilizing picket ledges to lean in opposition to. Previously utilized by the chip-shop for potato peeling, the again room has been remodeled right into a characterful eating room embellished with spherical marble tables – one other staple of Spanish eating places. The pièce de résistance, nevertheless, is an exquisite mosaic by artist Anja Maye, depicting the view from McIlroy’s household dwelling in Spain.

As soon as painted sky blue, all the house is now a sandy yellow. Akin to the color that outlined McIlroy’s mom’s kitchen when he was rising up, the shade enhances the darkish picket shelving. ‘The wooden has been repurposed from Nineteenth-century church pews. As a result of it’s outdated, it seems to be prefer it might have been right here for 50-odd years.’

One of the vital intriguing issues concerning the house is the assortment of artwork that hangs on the partitions, which McIlroy has been gathering for years. It features a portray by an outsider artist who lives in a fishing village alongside the northwest coast of Spain and a bespoke piece by London-based painter Harry Jones.

After which there’s the meals: it’s unfussy however contemporary and flavourful. Devilled crab, smoked eel omelette, salty potatoes and sauces (made utilizing the unique chip-shop fryers), and pollock pil pil are among the many standout plates, whereas flan and strawberries are served for dessert. ‘We’re not considering garnishing something an excessive amount of,’ says McIlroy. ‘Anticipate simplicity – a bit of fish simply cooked rather well.’

Tollington’s is situated at 172 Tollington Park, London, @tollingtons.fishbar