The consensus at Watches & Wonders 2024, was that this can be a ‘regular as she goes’ 12 months, with the main manufacturers taking part in it secure within the face of slowing gross sales development and expectations that the Covid bounce is operating out of steam. The image modifications, although, on the subject of the smaller, impartial watch manufacturers which can be seeing a sustained development in consideration as a brand new technology of consumers search out a stage of individuality and character that extra established manufacturers can’t danger, a pattern that main retailers reminiscent of Watches of Switzerland have began to note. Right here, the premium is on creativity pure and easy, and Geneva 2024 didn’t disappoint.
Unbiased watch manufacturers to know
Artya
Artya Purity Stairway to Heaven
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of the model)
Creativity doesn’t should imply ultra-complicated mechanisms or out-there design, as Artya’s Purity – Stairway To Heaven watch demonstrates. It’s a minimalist idea that’s all about shadows and reflections, surfaces and voids, hiding the complexity of the motion in plain sight, and works exceptionally effectively within the 40mm white ceramic case proven right here. There are blue, inexperienced and black variations, in addition to a metal choices; it’s an virtually unimaginable change of route for watch designer Yvan Arpa, Aryta’s founder, who made his title with considerably extra baroque and outré creations.
Artya Purity Stairway to Heaven, CHF29,900, artya.com
Singer
Singer Reimagined Divetrack
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of the model)
One issue that’s boosted impartial watch manufacturers is the provision of applied sciences and supplies (reminiscent of Artya’s ceramic circumstances) that had been as soon as the protect of extra industrial-scale makers. Singer Reimagined has made a specialism out of this strategy (not not like its mum or dad firm Singer Automobile Design, which restores and reimagines Porsche 911s) utilizing actions from Agenhor that depend on ‘printed’ silicon elements that provide out-of-the-ordinary efficiency. This entry permits designers reminiscent of Marco Borroccino, Singer Reimagined’s founder, the possibility to actually reinvent the wheel or, within the case of the brand new Divetrack, the diving watch.
Singer Reimagined Divetrack, CHF85,000, singerreimagined.com
MB&F
(Picture credit score: MB&F)
One other benefit to working on the boutique scale is the liberty to collaborate. MB&F is famously all about this, assembling groups of designers, makers and suppliers on a project-by-project foundation, the most recent version of the HM8 (the Mark 2) itemizing over 30 exterior suppliers from famend designer Eric Giroud via to Injector, the provider of the CarbonMacrolon composite panels. In fact, that is how the business typically works, however the freedom and openness with which MB&F operates wins kudos from purchasers and companions alike.
MB&F HM8 Mark 2 Blue, CHF73,00, madgallery.ch
Beauregard x Vianney Halter
Beauregard x Vianney Halter Ulysse
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of the model)
Collaboration additionally brings complementary abilities collectively as in veteran watchmaker Vianney Halter and jewelry watch studio Beauregard. The latter specialises in ladies’s designs, making extremely inventive use of treasured and semi-precious stones matched to high-end actions. For the brand new Ulysse, Alexandre Beauregard turned to Halter’s ‘Thriller’ motion to energy the contra-rotating discs, every a tracery of gold stuffed with specifically minimize aquamarines, a collaboration that allowed Beauregard to supply a watch with a dimension of motion not in any other case attainable.
Beauregard x Vianney Halter Ulysse, beauregard.ch
Massena LAB
Massena LAB 1952 Observatory Dial
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of the model)
Throughout Watches and Wonders 2024, impartial watchmaker Raúl Pagès was current on the AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants) mini-show in downtown Geneva, contemporary from successful the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize For Unbiased Creatives. He was, nonetheless, retaining his newest information quiet. Pagès is a part of a collaboration with Phillips in affiliation with Bacs & Russo and Massena LAB, and its second watch was launched on 24 April, the 1952 Observatory Dial Restricted Version. Impressed by a uncommon Patek Philippe watch from 1952, the watch incorporates a motion developed by Pages and has an outstanding yellow gold-accented, two-tone dial.
Massena LAB 1952 Observatory Dial, produced in a run of 99 in stainless-steel and obtainable via Phillips, CHF 8,800. Electronic mail massenalab@phillips.com
Urwerk
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Urwerk)
Urwerk’s fame is predicated on wildly advanced watches that characteristic planetary-geared fingers and discs to point out the time, futuristic supplies and precision enhancements, all housed in retro-sci-fi circumstances, so the SpaceTime Blade is sudden to say the least. A 1.7m excessive, 20kg glass and bronze blade that homes a stack of 8 ‘Nixie’ items, it’s designed to resemble a gnomon (the shadow blade on a sundial) and is ready as much as present time by way of our planet’s velocity across the solar (it’ll do vanilla time as effectively in order for you). Thirty-three will likely be made at CHF55,000 plus tax every.
Urwerk SpaceTime Blade, CHF55,000, urwerk.com
Nomos
Nomos Glashütte Tangente 38 Colors
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of NOMOS)
Nomos Glashütte made its Watches and Wonders debut in 2024 with a sequence of watches that completely encapsulate the model’s ethos and magnificence – take a splash of Eighties-inflected post-modernism, some de Stijl and Bauhaus references and an virtually messianic strategy to high quality and worth and you’ve got Tangente 38 Colors. The superbly easy case and hand-wound motion will likely be acquainted, however this 12 months, the watches seem in 31 color variations, every made in small runs of 175, utilizing swatches that emphasise totally different components of the dial design and provides a brand new power to the model’s most basic design.
Nomos Glashütte Tangente 38 Colors, £1,925, nomos-glashuette.com
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