Wallpaper* vogue options editor Jack Moss selects one of the best vogue interviews of 2022 – a better take a look at the figures who’ve outlined a 12 months in type. From the business’s most recognised names – Rick Owens, Manolo Blahnik, Giorgio Armani and Gabriela Hearst amongst them – to an rising era of designers carving new paths, these insightful and revealing conversations recap a definitive 12 months in vogue.
TOP 10 FASHION INTERVIEWS OF 2022
01. Pieter Mulier on ‘trendy magnificence’ and his imaginative and prescient for Alaïa
In Wallpaper’s September Model Problem, Belgian designer Pieter Mulier opened up about his imaginative and prescient for Alaïa, one 12 months after taking the helm. A pursuit of ‘trendy magnificence’ is central to his method, melding the sensuality of forebear Azzedine Alaïa along with his modern imaginative and prescient of womanhood. ‘Magnificence, physique, intercourse – [Alaïa] is the one place the place you need to use the phrase intercourse with out being vulgar,’ he stated. ‘It’s intercourse that comes from the center, from the within, the place magnificence belongs and may be discovered.’
02. Satoshi Kondo speaks of Issey Miyake’s legacy
Talking after his S/S 2023 present for Issey Miyake – the primary assortment offered after the demise of its eponymous founder in August 2022 – Satoshi Kondo paid homage to his forebear’s legacy of innovation and optimism. ‘Each assortment I [have] created with my workforce is a mirrored image of what we discovered from Miyake,’ Kondo stated, having turn into head designer in 2019. ‘Shifting ahead, as we’ve at all times executed previously, we’ll problem ourselves to create unique, unprecedented clothes that brings a way of pleasure and surprise.’
03. Rick Owens talks from his ‘concrete palace’
As a part of our ‘At Dwelling With’ collection, the iconoclastic designer Rick Owens spoke about his working course of, discovering inspiration, and the ‘concrete palace’ he calls house within the run-up to exhibiting his S/S 2023 menswear assortment in Paris (the sometimes dystopian setting noticed big metallic balls of fireside dropped from cranes into the fountains in entrance of the Palais de Tokyo). ‘I’m on my terrace overlooking the gardens of the Ministry of Defence – the roses are simply beginning to bloom and the wisteria that at all times appears to battle a bit seems to be lush and assured this season,’ he started.
04. Ester Manas: the label making garments for each physique
‘It’s for a lady who actually desires to be seen,’ says Ester Manas of her eponymous label, which she designs alongside associate Balthazar Delepierre. Talking from their Belgian studio, Manas and Delepierre discuss their size-inclusive method, the place a garment can span sizes S-3XL in a singular garment utilizing intelligent tips of design. ‘I wished to do one thing for myself, as a result of I’m plus-size,’ says Manas. ‘Once we began, again in 2016, it was not so cool to be large. It was a difficulty. We thought we would have liked to deal with that.’
05. Gabriela Hearst on sustainability and magnificence at Chloé
That includes within the March 2022 Model Problem, we caught up with Gabriela Hearst, the artistic director of Parisian home Chloé on her sustainably-minded method to luxurious – a course of she likened to the creation of an Italian Caprese salad. ‘You want to be working with one of the best components, nice tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella,’ she stated to Laura Hawkins. ‘Earlier than I joined Chloé, there was an oversight within the components getting used to create its last product.’
06. Manolo Blahnik: ‘the one factor you want is ardour’
Talking from his house within the Canary Islands, the legendary Spanish shoe designer talked to Wallpaper* in a wide-ranging interview – from his present studying listing to his all-time favorite dish (the bread and butter pudding from Wiltons restaurant on London’s Jermyn Avenue). He additionally shared his recommendation for a brand new era of creatives: ‘the one factor you want is ardour – a whole ardour for what you do, or what you are attempting to do,’ he stated.
07. In dialog: when Giorgio Armani met Paul Smith
As a part of Wallpaper’s October 2022 subject, Giorgio Armani proposed a dialog with fellow designer Paul Smith as a part of his visitor edit. Within the expansive interview, Armani and Smith talked store, discussing every thing from function fashions and profession highs to their sturdy Italian and British roots. ‘Generally I feel I’d have liked to be on the opposite facet, and be the one who asks questions – it’s a a lot simpler place in a means,’ stated Armani. ’Which, actually, is what has made this dialogue with you so fulfilling.’
08. New York’s new era
Seven distinct designers made up our decide of New York’s new era of vogue expertise, all of that are lifting town’s vogue week with their particular person interpretations of fashion. From Rachel Scott’s Diotama – which attracts on the dancehall traditions of Jamaica, Kingston, the place she was born – to Carly Mark and Ayla Argentina’s ‘clumsy and stylish’ Puppets and Puppets, every speaks to Wallpaper* about what it means to be a younger designer in New York, and certainly America, as we speak.
09. Christophe Lemaire on his longtime collaboration with Uniqlo U
Christophe Lemaire’s collaboration with Uniqlo is one among vogue’s most profitable partnerships; in October, he informed Wallpaper* the story behind his newest Uniqlo U assortment for the Japanese model, a modular wardrobe of reconsidered archetypes that are constructed to final. ‘As a designer, I’m extra into deep traits, and never seasonal traits,’ he stated from Paris. ‘It’s about having, or attempting to have, an understanding of the best way individuals behave, their methods of life, their wants. That’s what I’m serious about.’
10. Edward Buchanan: ‘the artistic course of for me is gorgeous in addition to painful’
Edward Buchanan – who runs personal label Sansovino 6, in addition to consulting for Off-White and Agnona – drew inspiration from the biodiversity of New York’s Excessive Line for his collaboration with Italian label Fabiana Filippi. Scarlett Conlon spoke to Buchanan on the gathering’s launch, which continued his repute as one among vogue’s busiest males. ‘The artistic course of for me is gorgeous in addition to painful, as a result of part of my course of now could be, do we’ve to take action a lot?’ he says. ‘I like longevity… I wish to construct one thing up sturdy and onerous and so you’ve got it for a very long time.’