If Copenhagen Trend Week has grown a fame for being one of the aware showcases on the annual schedule with its respected 18-point sustainability standards and its egalitarian ethos, then this season the organisers made some extent of acknowledging it. In her opening speech for Copenhagen Trend Week A/W 2024, the style council’s CEO Cecilie Thorsmark instructed attendees that towards a backdrop of struggle and political division, the style group must be ‘remind[ed] that democracy is to not be taken without any consideration. On this tremendous scary context, to place it straight, let’s all remind ourselves that from our privileged floor on this trade, we should benefit from our voice, and probably the most of our platforms for one thing higher.
‘Many people in our trade, […] have such loyal communities who hear and take inspiration from us,’ she continued. ‘So, we have to take that chance and make ourselves heard and push for change. Whether or not we push for a greater local weather, peace, extra variety and inclusion, political stability, or the safeguarding of our democracy.’
Of the 29 manufacturers on the schedule, a handful to this point are carrying the identical message (see: Alectra Rothschild / Masculina, Stamm and Henrik Vibskov) and had been probably the most profitable for it. Elsewhere, the absence of megabrand Ganni (which opted to help younger manufacturers together with Nicklas Skovgaard, Sarah Brunnhuber, and Alectra Rothschild this season) put the highlight on its fellow consultants in modern wardrobing, for which this Nordic showcase stays famed. Stine Goya, Munthe and OpéraSport all received the memo, presenting collections that discovered some extent of distinction with regards to originality and, crucially, retail positioning.
Right here, in an ongoing round-up, we report on the perfect of Copenhagen Trend Week A/W 2024.
One of the best of Copenhagen Trend Week A/W 2024
Nicklas Skovgaard
Nicklas Skovgaard A/W 2024
(Picture credit score: Images by James Cochrane, courtesy of Copenhagen Trend Week)
Final season’s wunderkind (amongst Wallpaper’s trend designers to observe in 2024) returned for his sophomore assortment with a well-earned bounce in his step. Final season for his debut, Nicklas Skovgaard wowed the group with a collaborative avant-garde efficiency by Britt Liberg, who modelled all the assortment solo. This season, she was again to carry the drama with a gaggle. Skovgaard has seen outcomes and a rising fan base from and for his Victoriana-meets-Eighties aesthetic. Right here, he conjured Melanie Griffith in Working Woman by the use of Bridgerton. Exaggerated shoulders (with pads, after all), pleated midi skirts, suede-insert leather-based bomber jackets and sequined funnel necks paved the best way for leotards and tailcoats, the latter proving a profitable combo. And, whereas Skovgaard as soon as once more confirmed his pure aptitude at igniting a temper and placing on a very good present, take away the styling – all backcombed hair-sprayed up-dos, white excessive heels, Flashdance shoulders, and leg heaters – and this was nonetheless a group stuffed with nice garments.
Gained Hundred
(Picture credit score: Images by James Cochrane, courtesy of Copenhagen Trend Week)
Celebrating its twentieth anniversary, Gained Hundred made a strong case for investing in actually glorious separates with its A/W 2024 assortment. Having made its title as an professional in denim, founder and artistic director Nikolaj Nielsen went into the archives ‘to reimagine iconic denim types that had been pivotal in our early years’, he mentioned. This translated to the model’s signature slim-fit denims reworked in a looser silhouette by integrating panels from deadstock material and the debut of a unisex jean, the ‘Genoa’, straight reduce with a refined flare. Except for the denim, materials development was the story right here: the leather-based was a success, arriving within the form of biker jackets one may fortunately stay in and constituted of hardy Realgrade-certified leather-based sourced from New Zealand. Elsewhere, advances had been made with its puffer jackets which have been crafted with 100 per cent recycled nylon and given a ‘Bionic-End Eco’ that imbues water resistance with out chemical therapy. ‘We’ve taken time to know what Gained Hundred actually represents. Now, we’re able to unleash the complete potential of our work, channelling our collective experiences into [this] assortment and drawing inspiration from the previous twenty years,’ says Nielsen.
Forza Collective
Forza Assortment A/W 2024
(Picture credit score: Images by James Cochrane, courtesy of Copenhagen Trend Week)
Having labored within the studios of Raf Simons, Christian Dior, Balmain, Lanvin and Idea, Forza Collective founder Kristoffer Guldager Kongshaug determined to make his own-brand debut in Copenhagen as a result of his womenswear model aligns with Danish values. ‘High quality, craftsmanship, longevity, responsibly sourced textiles and a love for pure merchandise, group – by means of these values and by drawing on my expertise from two very reverse cities on this planet of trend, Paris, and New York, I work to carry a brand new tackle Scandinavian minimalism,’ he instructed Wallpaper*. For his present on Monday 29 January, the designer offered a good providing that outlined his imaginative and prescient. Industrial-inspired mud coats and utilitarian dropped-waist clothes with PVC overlays contrasted with ruffled, picked denim and a collection of fairly dreamy corset clothes that had breastplate inserts and refined cut-outs. The final he offered in nylon, versus materials extra often related to the grandeur of eveningwear. ‘One thing you normally consider as previous and dusty abruptly will get a facelift and feels sporty and related,’ he explains. ’It abruptly feels very completely different and speaks to a unique buyer simply by altering the material.’
Saks Potts
(Picture credit score: Images by James Cochrane, courtesy of Copenhagen Trend Week)
The it-girl favorite of the Copenhagen trend scene, which captured 1,000,000 hearts with its ‘Cunning’ coat, returned to trend week with a group that proved outerwear stays its USP. Right here, jewel-toned puffer jackets, a panelled cow-hide coat and the ‘Cunning 2.0’ in leather-based and shearling had been the highlights of a concise 14-look present. For the remainder of its ready-to-wear, Kate Moss at Glastonbury circa 2003 was clearly on the moodboard right here, with a reproduction look comprising a pink kaftan, low-slung belt and black suede boots. Elsewhere, the baseball T-shirts, satin slip clothes, and whipstitch leather-based trousers, all of which had been worn with kitten heels, had been traditional Y2K-era styling, a glance that’s persevering with to peak this season – if it hasn’t already executed so.
Alectra Rothschild / Masculina
Alectra Rothschild / Masculina A/W 2024
(Picture credit score: Images by James Cochrane, courtesy of Copenhagen Trend Week)
Making their debut at Copenhagen Trend Week, Alectra Rothschild and her eponymous model – Alectra Rothschild / Masculina – staged what was solely the second present of the week however its vitality is proving exhausting to beat. Bringing her associates and private heroes collectively to mannequin her assortment, entitled ‘The Rebirth Carry’, Rothschild turned the catwalk right into a membership with the assistance of DJ G2G, who created the unique soundtrack to the present, that includes voiceovers from trans icons that performed from the decks within the centre of the room. As quickly as the primary beat dropped, the runway got here alive, as every mannequin took a flip across the room and remained on the ground thereafter. A educated tailor, the CSM graduate’s personal identification and influences shone right here, from the charming corsets that characteristic her ’zero-waste method’ to suit a large number of our bodies to the simple influence of her former mentor Casey Cadwallader at Mugler. ‘I feel what I simply showcased right here right this moment is my tradition, what I come from and the individuals I’ve round me are different individuals than what’s normally portrayed as Scandinavia. I feel it’s time we confirmed different narratives,’ she mentioned backstage.
Keep tuned for extra from Copenhagen Trend Week A/W 2024.
Supply: Wallpaper
